I have a small (18' x 24') mountian cabin with an alum. Metal roof.
This has begun to leak, and I'm destined, next week , to go and
re-pound the nails, and replace the loose ones with roofing
What I am curious about is where in the roofing should the nails be
The roofing has roughly the following profile
with a set of 'peaks' about 2 " from the edge. It would seem to make
sence to nail in the valley between peaks, but I have know clue, if
that is correct...
Thanks for your time...
I thought the "peak" was supposed to be installed on top of the "peak" on
the next panel, thus preventing water from working under the seam where the
panels meet. Looks like your roof was installed wrong, to me. Then when
nails or screws are used on top of the overlapped peaks, they are above the
flow of water coming down the roof and less likely to leak.
Sorry to leave 'gaps' in the info I provided. Yes, indeed the roofing
panels are installed in a manner that overlaps the adjacent panel,
with the edge valley's interlocking to help keep the water, snow, and
ice out. Over time, the original nails have backed out, and need to be
driven back in. I literally inherited this cabin, and had nothing to
do with it's building. There are nails in all manner of places, and I
was wondering if there was a suggested nailing pattern. I will just
drive back in the nails that seem tight, replace any that seem loose,
with screws/washers, and calk the daylights out of everything
Thanks all for your time
Don't pound the nails in. Pull each nail out,one by one, replacing
it with a screw/rubber washer which Home Depot sells. Make sure to
use a diameter large enough so that the screw threads will engage...
I've seen panels installed with fasteners in valleys, and with
fasteners on peaks. I prefer the peaks, myself, since the rain runs
into the valleys in torrents and floods the head of the fastener. The
rubber washers seal it, but, hey, nothings perfect forever. On the
peaks, the water never builds up.... However, in several types, the
manufacturers reccomment fastening to the valleys, since one can
get a tighter seal, since the peaks flex over time. That's why they
ALWAYS recommend the fasteners - screw type-- to get a nice
tight compression to the washer....
I'm afraid you have a continuing problem with your roof because of
the initial installation..... if you stay on top of it, you will not
buy as many buckets to use inside.... good luck..
Andy in Eureka
PS Don't drink the beer until AFTER you come down off the roof.....
You need to pull out and replace the nails that come loose. New
neopreme seals will extend the life greatly. Adding a longer nail
than you pull out will give you greater holding power. Use screws if
you like, especially in those areas where there are lots of nails
working loose. It indicates the wind plus expansion and contraction
is loosening your nails.
And stay out of the valleys. That's for the water.
Thanks for all the good advice. I will replace all lose nails with
screws/washers. I won't pull all the nails out this trip as I only
have a long weekend, and it is a 4 hour trip each way (Northern Cal)
Also this is on a 12/12 pitched roof so working on it is a pain...and
I do need some time OFF of the roof, for the afore mentioned beer...:)
I have the same construction original aluminum roof(as yours, also 12 in
12) on one of our cabins from 1956. I was fortunate enough to have the
builder leave a 100+ year supply of the original spiral aluminum
grommeted roofing nails, which are still well more than half left.
Regular inspection & tune-ups is the key, replacing nails which have
lost their grommet(I sometimes use GE Silicone II for a touch-up).
I have not yet had to use any screws, but you can, as long as they are a
very close aluminum alloy.
In the peaks is the rule, especially considering our roofs are metal by
design to ensure that the snow slides off.
I can navigate my roof with only LL Bean walkers. I'm destined for a
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