on the face. Gauge a center line upon it and insert a dowel that will fit snugly in a corresponding hole in the cap. Next saw two kerfs in the block parallel with the gauge line, as shown at <I>aa</I>, and at a distance from the latter equal to the square distance of the miter line a from the center of the cap <I>c</I>, Fig. 8Ch. 4. Fig 8,9. Proper shape and fitting of a rail cap.. The depth of the saw cuts below the edge of the cap, which is shown by the dotted line in Fig. 10Ch. 4. Fig. 10. Cap miter pattern, is made equal to the length of the miter line, as shown in the plan Fig. 8Ch. 4. Fig 8,9. Proper shape and fitting of a rail cap.. The width of the rail is marked upon the edge of the cap. The latter is then placed on the dowel and turned around until one of the marks lies against one of the saw kerfs. The saw is then run down to the bottom of the cut, and the cap turned until the other line lies on the other kerf, when the saw is again run in to meet the first cut, which finishes the miter complete. The foregoing method is the best and most economical for fitting the rail to the cap, but sometimes it is required that the joint shall be a true miter, which may necessi≠tate some different treatment in forming the section of the cap. This is shown in Fig. 7Ch. 4. Fig. 7. Relation of the turned cap and the moulding., where full directions are given for laying out the lines for this kind of a cap.
It is hardly necessary for me to say much about forming a pitch board by which stair strings are laid out, but as many of the readers of this book will be beginners in the art of stair-building, it may be well to devote a small space to this subject.
A pitch board is simply a piece of thin board, or other suitable material, and is in itself triangular. It is so cut as to represent the rise of the step and width of tread proper. The third or long side being the