R-22 vs. R410a (Puron)

Which systems are more reliable, those that use R22 vs. R410a? Are R410a systems REALLY as reliable R22?

I live in a condo and replacing the refrigerant lineset would involve ripping up the ceiling drywall. My AC system is 20 years old. Wondering the best solution would be to get a new R22 system (with existing refrigerant lines) installed before 2010. If the existing system were to die after 2010, then only systems that use 410a will be sold, and I would have to hope and pray that cleaning/purging out the old lines REALLY is going to be sufficient for a reliable 410a system. What do you think?

Thanks,

J.

Reply to
Jay-n-123
Loading thread data ...

Depends on the installer.

You're likely to be screwed either way, if the lineset isn't large enough for the new high S.E.E.R. equipment.

Reply to
<kjpro

In our area, I&#39;m beginning to notice a few common trade practices (that might be unique to around here), and wonder if you could flesh out the reasoning for one of them.

Except for slab construction, I&#39;ve noticed that nobody seems to use chases or conduits through which to run linesets. I&#39;ve even seen a few cast right into slabs without the first bit of pipe around them. It seems to me that some 4" or 6" thinwall waste pipe would be a great investment toward future upgrades. For any set shorter than 100&#39;, it would be pretty inexpensive, too.

I have seen a lot of water in the couple of grade-level or below-grade sets I&#39;ve pulled out of conduit, and suppose that might be one objection to using it. (Ken _likes_ it that it&#39;s my hands and not his in that stagnant goop...)

Are there other reasons - besides the basic cost of materials and labor - that make conduit/chase installation of linesets undesirable?

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

R-22 runs at much lower pressures and systems using it are therefore cheaper and more reliable, other things being equal. A given 410a system could be reliable enough, but only at some higher relative cost.

410a systems only exist because of politics, not technical merits.
Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Do you think I should plan on gettting a new R22 system by 2009 since they stop making R22 systems in 2010? (My existing system is 20 years old)

Reply to
Jay-n-123

According to the Rheem tech rep, if the lineset is correctly sized, blowing it out with N2 real well and using a little lineset flush is sufficient for a new R-410a system. Contrary to popular belief, R-410a is a more efficient refrigerant, and requires a smaller compressor. The same size of R-22 system in the same efficiency will use twice the amount of refrigerant to do the job. The real catch is if the lineset is correctly sized. As far as reliability, I have recently replaced 35 year old R-22 systems with R-410a....I can&#39;t say about the longevity with the new because it hasn&#39;t been around that long.

Reply to
Noon-Air

Gotta love it when the lowest bidder gets the job

There is a reason that your supposed to seal both ends of the chase

Reply to
Noon-Air

Currently, the R-22 systems are more expensive that the R-410a systems of the same size and efficiency

Reply to
Noon-Air

Just blow your lines out. Install a suction line filter/drier. Hire a pro, with a warranty. No worries ;)

Your biggest concern is suction line size. If the old size doesn&#39;t match up with the 410a specs, then forget it. Drywall and mudd are cheap...

-Canadian Cool

--

--------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @

formatting link
----- ---- -- -

Reply to
Anonymous

Just blow your lines out. Install a suction line filter/drier. Hire a pro, with a warranty. No worries ;)

Your biggest concern is suction line size. If the old size doesn&#39;t match up with the 410a specs, then forget it. Drywall and mudd are cheap...

-Canadian Cool

--

--------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final Web @

formatting link
----- ---- -- -

Reply to
Anonymous

So, by that, do you mean it _should_ be done, and just isn&#39;t to save time/sweat?

The two I pulled _were_ "sealed" somewhat -- one only with foam (spray-on) and one with foam and capped with mortar at the outside end; and of course, the mortar was cracked. On both, the inside end was sealed with foam. I presume the water was from condensation and not from leakage. Seems like only a good hermetic seal would prevent the pipe from breathing under temperature changes.

What should be used? Is there a fitting designed to the purpose?

You may have answered that there aren&#39;t... but I didn&#39;t read that clearly.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

yup... if the lineset is in the slab, a PVC chase is required.

I use the expanding foam on both ends.... it seems to work well enough. The only things I run through the lineset chase are the lineset and the control wires. No I don&#39;t tie the lineset and wires together or tape them.....I have had to replace too many wires that were taped or tied. I don&#39;t staple them inside of the walls either.

Just use the expanding foam.....its a good idea to make sure that the inside of the chase is clean and dry before you run the copper.

nope, and the only additional cost is $10 in 4 inch drain pipe

Reply to
Noon-Air

Please explain.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Ok..... 2 heat pumps, 4 ton, 13 SEER...same series......

RPNL-048JAZ 13SEER R-410a heat pump takes 11.5lbs refrigerant and rated 21.8 RLA(measured amp draw on the compressor is 12.8 - 13.2 amps) Copeland compressor # ZP42K5E-PFV-130

RPNE-048JAZ 13SEER R-22 heat pump takes 19.8lbs refrigerant and rated 22.7 RLA (measured amp draw on the compressor is 17.6 - 18.0 amps) Copeland compressor # ZR45K3-PFV-835

The R-410a compressor is also physically almost half the size of the R-22 compressor. Using half the amount of refrigerant, half of the coils(single layer instead of double layer coils in the condenser/heat pump), and a smaller compressor, to give the same or greater efficiency at the same BTU capacity, makes R-410a more efficient......almost twice that of R-22.

Reply to
Noon-Air

I was on a job once and saw perforated pipe used. The contractor told me that there was a perimeter drain and the refrigerant lines were above the tile, so instead of sealing off the ends with foam he stuffed them. His idea is that any condensation leaks would be leached. Interesting way he thinks

Reply to
Geoman

ummmmm...... yeah......ok........

Reply to
Noon-Air

You&#39;re talking about one model of one manufacturer. Why do they tell us in 410a training classes that 410a is only 5% more efficient than r-22? Are ALL manufacturers going to single row condenser coils or just rheem-ruud?

Your argument is somewhat slanted if you dont also include todays repair costs of 410a vs R22.

like the man said, its all nothing more than a political thing designed to line the pockets of corporate america.

Reply to
gofish

Noon-Air That might be ok where you are but if your talking about apartments or commercial where some form of fire separation/segregation is required. Expanding polyurethene sealants are forbidden in these instances so you might like to/should reconsider and used an appropriate intumescent (fire rated) mastic sealant.

As to the practice of pouring concrete over the linesets - sounds like a whole lot of liability exposure to me...

Reply to
New Directions In Building Ser

On 16 May 2007 19:17:35 GMT, DANgER (dangerJust blow your lines out.

Im guessing you use your mouth.

Why? Its not a burn out. Some manufacturers dont like suction line driers installed permanently. They are for clean up then remove them. That suction line drier is going to be a little silly on the line set of a heat pump.

Wow! You do have at least part of a brain.

Ooops. Never mind. You just lost that piece of brain I thought you had.

Ahh, maybe a field you are good in. Drywall and Mudd!

You really are still brain-dead.

Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

Hey, that&#39;s a great idea! How much radius do you think you need on the curve to pull a lineset through 35&#39; of horizontal pipe and then up a foot or two into the HVAC closet?

Reply to
Longtime Lurker

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.