1.. Plant at the depth where the roots spread from the trunk. Do expose
the the trunk flare at the base of the trunk. This is stem tissue and needs
to be out of the ground.
2.. Prepare a planting site, not just a hole in the ground. Make a dish.
3.. Loosen the soil far beyond the dripline of the tree. A pitch fork will
4.. Brace the tree only if it will not remain upright in a moderate wind
after you have followed steps 1,2 & 3.
Brace with broad, belt-like materials that won't injure the bark.
5.. Mulch away from the trunk with composted material. No more than 3-4"
thick. (Keep mulch at least 6" (15cm.) away from the trunk to reduce chances
of rodent injury and infection by pathogens) You have too much when roots
are growing into the mulch.
6.. Keep soil moist, not water-logged, to the depth of the roots. Water
out to drip line. Only water the area of the root ball two times. After
that, water outside that area so the roots will grow outward.
7.. Remove dead and dying branches properly.
8.. Wait until the second growing season after planting to begin training
cuts for shaping and to begin fertilization with organic material if needed.
a.. DO NOT PLANT TOO DEEP
b.. Money and time is wasted when trees are planted too deep.
c.. Do not bury roots in small deep holes.
d.. Do not wrap trees with tree wrap or other wrapping after planting.
e.. Do not amend the soil, unless the soil is very poor. Match the tree
with the right pH type soil.
f.. Do not brace so tightly that the tree cannot sway.
g.. Do not brace with wire in a hose. Do not use materials that are not
broad, belt-like and flexible.
h.. Do not fertilize at planting time. (Use organic additives when
i.. Do not plant grass or flowers near the tree. Grass will kill a tree!
j.. Do not remove branches to balance crown with roots. Do prune crushed
roots with a shape tool and make a straight cut..
For much more:
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Click to see the full signature.