I've thought of and read of brushing on
the poison. I'd like to keep the application
as local as possible. I think an all-vegetation
killer applied so will do for all to be rid of.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Dan
I saw a neat idea on Rebecca's Garden - cut the bottom out of a gallon
size plastic milk jug and cut a bigger hole in the top. You can hold it
by the handle, set over the weed to be sprayed and spray through the
hole in the top. Wait a couple of seconds for the spray to settle, and
then do the next one.
My concern is a lawn almost gone. I've nearly
finished a deep dethatching of a front portion. Much
moss, a lot of clover, and old clippings has added
up to many yard bags; all from an area about
700 square feet.
Numerous weeds small and large remain as well as
some patchy growth. That group which does not belong
is the target for brush applied herbicide.
The area is now dry. Should I first lime, fertilize,
and water, then brush on the poison? Perhaps some
other sequence should be followed? Dan
If you have a northern lawn with northern grasses (rye, fescue,
bluegrass) then August 15 to September 15 is the best time to reseed.
You should have a soil test and apply what is needed for the grasses you
choose and then reseed. The sooner you kill the weeds, the sooner the
area under them can be reseeded. You should rough up the areas that
need reseeding. You can select varieties of grass that do well in your
situation. I like fescues since they don't need rich soil and
fertilizer and are reasonably fine. Blue grasses are the cadilac of
grasses but are heavy feeders and are not tolerant of shade, rough use,
and abusive mowing. There are good ryes, but some are annual and many
Regarding herbicides, you can easily apply roundup with a brush. I would
use concentrate and a brush or sponge type brush. Roundup take about a
week to see the death in the green part since it kills the roots first.
You apply to the green part and the roundup is carried to the roots
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Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
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