my wife and I live in an old apartment with wooden floors. The floor
is fine for the most part but it has started to show its age.
the main problem we have right now is there are big cracks between
alot of the wood slats - the cracks are very visible, and fill up with
dirt. Also, the slats are giving in and make quite a bit of noise
landlord did some sh!ty work with putty that has cracked and creates
We would like to fill the cracks witha material that will not allow
dirt to fall between the wood and that is durable and also looks
Both my wife and I have no problem whatsoever with doing the work
what would you suggest?
First thing I would do is check your rental contract and ask the landlord
what repairs, if any are allowed, who pays, etc.
Assuming you can proceed with the work and the floors are worth the effort,
you should sand the floors down, fill in the cracks with the proper putty,
stain (optional), then put down some polyurethane.
I just searched for the term bar top or bartop but then realized its from
the rec.woodworking (the wreck) NG. May have more luck copying it over
there too. I am not a chemist and do not know the answer on how to use this
product in this context, nor any other answer.
"bartop" in Subject: OR Message: field
I just had a thought about drizzling it into the gaps before or at the same
time as another coat of hard-surface (non-Spar/marine/floor) poly. One
knowledgeable about chemistry would advise best method, however I would
think avoiding extraneous sanding a priority. I have done poly floors like
that with a lambswool applicator on a pole. Its like a mophead you wrap a
lambswool pad around.
This is expensive I would think, but poly would follow the contours of the
cracks, whereas this may fill and bridge. The specific applicator like a
modified plastic oil can or huge syringe, etc. may be essential, and timing,
and amount. I wouldn't expect to be able to chisel/sand b/c damage to the
surrounding area may be too dangerous.
These are good for finishing wood surfaces, as well as scraping old paint
off, etc. The edge gets a burr, and its like dragging a chisel backward.
You can get one at Home Depot, etc., but whether or not they are of any use
b/c unsharpened is another story. The tool itself is a pretty specific
piece of steel, and when sharpened properly you'll be the only guy on the
block. Don't know if the ones sold at the link above come sharpened.
seldom would anyone have a high hardenable usable piece steel around their
house they could use to "sharpen" one of these things. Defintely needas
practice at that too. Do not expect to open and sharpen it for immediate
use. Keeping these tuned is key. Inside the engine of a car in a piston
wrist pin. The sharpeners sold here if interested is probly a good idea,
make that definetely. Anyways these guys can answer your questions.
this may sound strange but.. in northern new england they use a mixture of
maple syrup & sawdust to fill the voids involved with wide/ knotty pine
floors. it will harden eventually & still allow the wood to expand &
contract, which the glue will not do. using glue will cause more cracking in
the long run.
If you don't want to attract insects, you could use sawdust mixed
with either polyurethane or glue. I have done small repairs using
model airplane glue but would think either the polyurethane or either
a water or solvent based carpenters glue would work. I would think
that there are some commercial wood patching materials that would work
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