I'm looking at buying a small single story house to flip. It sure
could use a small addition in the kitchen. To keep cost down I would
just extend the floor joist to create an overhang. For the life of me
I can't remember if the joist are 2x8's or 2x10's. Either way do you
have a calculation to determine the maximum length for both lumbers? I
don't want to dig for a foundation so overhang is the way to go. Also,
is there a way to determine the maximum overhang if I were to double
the lumber and use a flinch plate?
I'm sorry but I can't answer, and I'm pretty sure that I shouldn't answer.
On the first point, there's way to little information for anyone to
intelligently answer. On the second point, even if I did have enough info to
address the first point, I'd be doing work, and taking risk, with no reward
other than your gratitude. I've got paying work I have to do, and then in my
free time I've got a bunch of other things to do. My discretionary time
around this time of year revolves around hockey playoffs, "the Provincials",
and then tryouts for next year.
Based on what you've said, I'd be surprised if your approach is going to be
able to work, or cost effective once you figure out how to do it right. One
doesn't typically "extend" a floor without foundations or bearing of some
kind, and I think you mean "flitch plate". Flinching is what I'm doing.
I have seen it done, the new joists had to be sistered up with the existing
& they had to extend a minimum of 2/3 of the distance back inside the main
structure. IOW, not more than 1/3 of the joist length can be cantelevered.
keep in mind i was the designer only the builder & i thought the finished
project was a little too "boucey" when we completed.
Even if you could retrofit cantilevered joists from an engineering
point of view, it seems like an awful lot of work--surely there is
plumbing and electical in the way? It'd hardly be more work to use
helical piers or sonotubes.
It's not that complicated. I'm just going to put a 2' overhang in
the eating area of a kitchen to get more space
to walk around the table. The original joist go in the right direction
to sister on the new joist. At one time I had a
spreadsheet on the maxim that this could be done. Right now I was
looking for the calculation. Anyone can figure
a 2' overhang, I was looking to see if I could pick up a few more
inches, or if the calculation is shorter than the 2'.
Keep it simple gentlemen, it's just not that difficult.
Well the point is that your question was sort of naive. Our
engineer/architect friends on this NG tend to get het up when you look
for free advice without providing any background information. How can
anyone tell you how far you can cantilever when you provide zero
information on loads? Joist depth would be critical too. Which way
are you going to run your rafters? etc.
The only simple calculation for cantilevers I have heard of is that
load bearing cantilevers can extend only as far as the joist depth.
Otherwise you're looking at paying an engineer, or just doing it
yourself and hoping for the best.
I like it when people who can't do it themselves, tell me how complicated my
work is. It's usually in the context of trying to drive down my fee. Since
the fee is zero here, it looks like I'll have to pay him money before it's
over ; )
"Het up"? Is that a typo, or some expression I've never heard before?
I'm curious now. Is anyone going to give odds on the OP doing the
work without a permit and having an "interesting" time when he goes to
sell the house? I think we should call Flip This House and get them
over there to start filming. They love that sort of thing.
I _like_ it! It saves a bunch of letters and a syllable.
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