Metal buildings

Mar 22, 2005 42 Replies

Some might remember my posting about building my workshop/garage into a hillside bank-barn style, well after much consideration and planning I'm going to abandon that idea in favor of a 30 x 50 steel frame on a flat part of the yard. The design for the hill side structure required lots of concrete @ approx $100 per yd. Even with my involvement in digging and forming I would of had $20K in the 1st floor walls/foundation, floor slab and 2" toping w/spancrete planks & still needed to build the second floor/roof. After looking around I found I can purchase a 30 x 50 steel frame 14' wall and put it on a slab for about the $20k and have money left for new tools ect. Anyway I'm thinking about a Heritage steel frame (

formatting link
) if I order from a distance or possibility an Armor (
formatting link
) as there is a local dealer. The local dealer is new, has not sold any buildings yet and gave me a substantially higher price (30%) on the basic parts. His protests aside I can't see any major differences in the design or materials and I gave them both the same specs. I do realize it would be nice to have a local on the hook if I run into problems but I'm don't feel it's worth 30% more, plus if he hasn't sold and built any yet then he's in the same place I am. If anyone has experience with Heritage or Armor good or bad I'd like to hear about it, also any first hand metal building tales would be good too.



Thanks



Andrew


...

Don't know Armor but how do they match when you include shipping/erection? That is, what's the turnkey difference? Or, are you thinking you're going to erect it yourself?

Check for differences in doors/windows, etc. Be absolutely sure you know the actual material spec's for each (ga, finish, warranty, etc.).

30% ime is a difference for the same building--it's a competitive field, and there's rarely more than a few hundred to $1k on a basic stock $20k building from various suppliers. Only exception around here to that is perhaps the "name"--here, that's Morton.

I closed a deal just yesterday for a 30 x 50 x 12 erected on my existing slab in North-Central Texas. Two 10 x10 doors and 1 personnel door. 26 gauge colored roof and walls, contrasting trim, no gutters, full insulation, I-beam rafters and posts, 8 inch C purlins and girts. $16,345.00

Ok, I'm in Texas (Boerne, down by San Antonio) who did you purchase it from?

Gary

I'm planning on putting it up with a few helpers and a forklift because the pricing I got for a "turnkey" building was about $50k. That was for a 30 x

50 x 14 on piers & frost proof slab w/4:12 roof 60 pd snow load, standing seam roof ,26 gauge walls, walk door, 2 overheads and 2 windows, r-30 insulation roof & r-19 walls. No heat, plumbing or electrical. I'm in southern Vermont. The prices I'm getting for just the building w/ doors and insulation are about what you are paying for the finished product.

I'm jealous

Andrew

Hey Im glad I came across this thread!!

Im a bachelor who is tired of renting. And I want to build (or have built a bachelor pad). This "house" could be very small as I don't need much space anyway..... I could easily live in 600 sf.

Having said that I was eye balling heritage's steel A frame house. see link

formatting link
Price on that is abt $18k

I could easily afford that... and believe me money IS an issue

The 'idea" is to build something small enough.... and energy efficient enough... and economical enough that I have no mortgage or almost no mortgage.

Do you think model above and using steel is way to go?

Where can you get a building erected for $10.90/sf? Great deal. Even a junk wood storage building at Home Depot is around $20/sf installed and my architect gave me a bid about the same price for just the plans ($8K architectural/permit and $8K structural cals) for for a second floor 500sf remodel ($32/sf for just the paper work!!!) out here in overpriced California.

personnel

gutters,

Eight grand for structural?! Sorry, I can't imagine a 500 SF remodel of any type of construction requiring anywhere near that amount of number crunching. I'd start looking for a new architect - he's obviously not concerned with protecting your financial interests. I wouldn't stick around to find out how he'd do with the actual construction.

R

An architect for a storage building? Makes you wanna move don't it?

The building is in San Francisco where they need earthquake seismic calculations. My understanding is the new structural cals require much more number crunching than the previous years. For this upstairs remodel the City requires me to install a handicap bathroom on the first floor along with seismic retrofit on the first floor below the area of remodel. I also need to rip out the first floor ceiling to install full insulation. This could run into around $350/sf by the time its finished and I'm not sure I want to go ahead with it. I had hoped to keep it down to $150/sf. Nuts!

Duane hit the nail on the head with the following..............

Both of those you listed are listed with Metal Construction News as suppliers of PEB's. Neither 'appears' to be design-fabricate however.

Look @

formatting link
formatting link
formatting link

and you'll see what the better PEB dealers put up for referencing their products. The above are just 7 of over ?? many design/fabricate vendors. Go to

formatting link
& to
formatting link
for a BIG list of project vendors.

The difference in PEB's is like the difference in tools from say, Harbor Freight, Shucks, Sears and Snap-On. Make sure any choice you make includes a mfg. vendor that's associated with AISC

formatting link
& MBMA
formatting link
Basically a set standard to work to.

If you run into problems during construction/erection, and you usually will, you need a vendor that can supply resolutions, materials in a timely fashion without having to deal with 3rd party idiots. You also need someone that has EXPERIENCE in erection of PEB's, and not they've put up a couple or four, or even worse, none. These are not tinker toys........................Improperly torqued bolts, wrong screws in roof/wall panels, improper sequence of erection, roof panels seamed/sealed/installed improperly, ridge/soffitt panels improperly installed, wall panels lapped wrong, insulation installed improperly and on and on..................

Dan

Wow, once in a while you post a question to UseNet and hit the jackpot. Thanks for the well researched and linked post. I've been to a couple of the sites, like Varco-Pruden and Butler. I have a local VP dealer & he is willing to sell me the building and a consulting package ....daily rates and inspections, might be a good way seeing as I can't afford the $50 k + I was quoted for a turnkey package. Looking closely at the spec's is good advise, after speaking to several companies I've worked up a sheet of spec's that covers size thru roof load to door openings and materials.

Thank again, I'l be pouring over links for a while

Andrew

Rocking R Construction; Rio Vista; 817/774-5697

One other caveat. The building wind rating is only valid if the doors are also rated.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required