Hall & Landing Lighting

Just follow the 3-way Switch (required and must be used) manufacturer's instructions and below I have also provided a link to a very clear illustration. But basically and the easiest configuration is, the White/Neutral wire only gets connected/wire-nutted to other White wires and any light fixtures, but not to any switch.

- The Earth/Ground wire is almost the same setup as the White, but it does get pigtailed to the switches (and metal electrical boxes, if used) as well. Pigtails are just short pieces of wire that branch off to the switch and are a 3rd wire in the wire-nut.

- The Hots or Black and Red wires should not have any wire nuts in their runs and should be oriented the same on both switches. Notice in the illustration linked below that the 3-core+earth should only run between the switches and nowhere else.

- Power should enter the circuit at 1-switch and exit to the light(s) at the 2nd switch by only a 2-core+earth wire and the lights should be conjoined by only a 2-core+earth wire as well. See the illustration noted here -

Hi Iggy, thank you for the diagram, it's appreciated. The only question I think is do I need to loop the switches. Can I please send a visual of the two existing sockets (on wall) with wiring attached and the two new switches, just a bit confused if I need to loop as the new switches both extra wiring connectors? All wiring to ceiling roses is fine as your recommendation.

Thank you, Christian

Hi Iggy, thank you for the diagram, it's appreciated.

The only question I think is do I need to loop the switches.

Can I please send a visual of the two existing sockets (on wall) with wiring attached and the two new switches, just a bit confused if I need to loop as the new switches both extra wiring connectors?

All wiring to ceiling roses is fine as your recommendation.

Sorry, your first reply only just displayed today. Yes, absolutely upload pictures or post them elsewhere and provide the links.

- I don't get what you mean by "loop". The 2 switches (hall & landing) must be directly connected to each other by the 3-core+earth. Then, one switch gets the power supply and the other goes out to the light(s).

- What you're doing with the 3rd switch isn't involved nor included here, unless it's to work with a 4th switch to handle a separate light(s). If so, that's the same process, but it must be separate from switches 1 and 2 and their light(s).

Hi Iggy, thank you the reply. We are all correct as per your explanation - two switches have new 3core+earth ready to be connected to each other. What I mean by loop is the new landing switch has double terminal unit on the back so not sure where to install wires. The new hall plate has two extra switches compared to only a single switch before, these two new switches will work both landing and new outside porch light later. Thank you, Christian P.S. Having issue uploading the image, can I please email directly?

Ah, I see. Yes, that's the wrong type of switch. No shame in hiring an Electrician to have a good example for future projects.

- Notice in the diagram that to control a light(s) from 2 locations, your switch must have 3-terminals+earth (a 3-way switch)...for the stairway and/or hallway light(s). A switch with only 2-terminals+earth (a single-pole switch) is only to control a light(s) from a single location...for the porch light.

- On your 2 new 3-way switches, the Black screw/terminal is what receives the power on 1-switch and what sends the power out to the light(s) on the 2nd-switch. The Brass/Gold screws/terminals are what get the 3-core+earth's Red and Black wires. It doesn't matter which Brass/Gold screw/terminal gets the Red or Black, but your choice should be duplicated on the other switch.

- The new porch light's Single-pole switch gets the power's Black wire connected at its bottom Brass/Gold screw and sends the power out by the top Brass/Gold switch, which is the light's Black wire...flipping the switch up sends the power up to the top screw/terminal and out to light. Here as well, the White wire is not connected to the switch, but of course the Earth wire is.

Hi Iggy, thanks for the reply, did you receive the image upload? Thanks, Christian

The image isn't showing yet, hopefully it pops up in another few hours. Disqus is a bit temperamental sometimes and has to wait for a person to approve the picture...3-core, 2-core, wire nuts, pigtails an screwing might have tipped them off.

Hi Christian, we are not seeing the image you uploaded in the thread. Have you used the "image" icon in the bottom left corner of the comment? Please try again.

Hi Home Owner, I did save the image in correct format and below max allowed file size but keep getting error message not logged in? Will try again with this post. Thanks, Christian

Hi Iggy, please find the visual tweeted here: @ttlcntrlprint Can you please let me know if you think the double terminal the 2way switch will be fine? Thank you, Christian

Well, those were exactly the pictures I was hoping I would not see and forget EVERYTHING I said. We aren't supposed to be fielding European nor especially European Wiring on this portion of the site, because we're not familiar with the absurd silliness that only benefits the utility company...I was hoping your terminology was just a carryover and you had moved to the U.S.

- But no, the 1-way switches you have (which they ALL are) will not create a multiple-location operation of the light(s). The 1-ways will only be fine at the ends of the setup and nowhere else. You must still have an actual 3-way switch between two 1-ways as a/the 3rd switch (stupidly, it's nothing but a switched junction box)...see the correct diagram below.

- The 3-way switch in the new diagram is the middle switch with 2 accommodations for L1 and L2. And, preferably, only 2-core+earth must run up to the ceiling rose box. As you can see in the diagram, the European System is EXTREMELY flawed and therefore unnecessarily dangerous.

- Yes, you absolutely MUST tape or Sharpie or Paint red onto all of those wires just like the diagram, as those wires are now to be used as Live wires (the deadly L in L1 and L2). I'm sorry you're stuck with it, but I need to back away and you should confirm what I've said and the diagram on a more appropriate site.

Hi Iggy, thank you for all the help, the European health and safety seems absurd compared with the US. I will call an electrician in the UK. Thanks again, Christian

Best of luck, it should fulfill your every dream.