Zero Clearance insert for Grizzly 1023S

I would like to get a ZCI today at either Woodcraft or Rockler. IIRC, neither has a model specifically listed for the Grizzly. I have heard that the ZCI for Delta Unisaw fits the Griz. Anyone know this FOR SURE?
Also, any rec on the best type? I would like to find one like Norm uses..with a replaceable wooden section around the blade.
Thanks.
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Make your own out of some ply or a hardwood. Use the original, trace it on the wood and cut it out, that's it.......Brian
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I just bought one for my old Rockwell contractor special. The package said it would also fit the Grizzly, but i cannot verify. --dave

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I get really fancy and use the original with a pattern bit. Makes a perfect copy...just rough it out first. You can make 3 or 4 in less than 30 minutes. I use hardwood and use the planer to shave it down to just the right thickness.
Don't forget to put a nail in the back to keep that rear of the insert down! DAMHIKT.

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wrote:

I second that one. You *can* ask me about it:
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=paul+kierstead+insert+groin&hl=en&lr=&s afe=off&selm=pmkierst-A9B929.00064823032004%40nntp.bloor.is.net.cable.rog ers.com&rnum=1
or the short version:
http://tinyurl.com/5yyla
PK
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You can make one yourself. You can get the material at a plastics house or use wood. You pattern rout the outside. You drill and tap 4 holes and that's it. If you want to have the wood inserts you can make it out of aluminum. Aluminum routs with carbide router bits very nicely. max

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"Newshound" wrote in message > I would like to get a ZCI today at either Woodcraft or Rockler. IIRC,

that
I made mine out of solid-surface countertop material. The most time-consuming part of it all was making a pattern (I used particle board. I cut out the solid surface a little bit large with the table saw and band saw, clamped the pattern to the solid surface, and routed it with a trimmer bit. A little touch-up with a block sander and I was done. Once I was finished, I placed it into the machine with the blade down and slowly cranked the blade up.
If you need to have holes, you can do that also and countersink the holes.
You can often get scraps of Corian or Gibraltar (or other brands of solid surface) from cabinet/countertop shops, as they are scrap.
Also remember you need a good strong router and it will be hard on your bits, but not too much.
Have a nice day, woodstuff
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wrote:

carry the factory one in with you and compare it.
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Pardon my ignorance here but what is a zero clearance insert used for. As you can tell I've never had nor used one.
RonT
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Ron Truitt wrote:

Table saws have an insert around the blade that you can remove. You might replace it with a dado insert with a very wide saw slot for several blades or a zero clearance insert that has no additional clearance around the blade. The benefit of the zero clearance insert is that it is "impossible" for a small stick of cut off wood to catch in the space between the blade and the insert.
Josie
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I don't use one very often, but they keep the bottom side of the board from tearing out. Very handy for cutting plywood. It does seem to increase the amount of sawdust that gets thrown on top of the saw though.
I also use them I'm dadoing a narow board so it gets better support.
Jim
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Ron Truitt) wrote in 3171.bay.webtv.net:

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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Ron Truitt) writes:

Unlike everyone else, I got a zero clearance insert just as a higher quality replacement for the stock insert. I routed a 1/4" groove in it for the blade (I tried making it ZC but it was noisy that way).
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