Youtube video of my upside down Craftsman 10" Radial Arm table saw

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Maybe, but I think he is a delusional person thinking he has the best power tool ever designed! Greg
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On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 04:10:43 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"

Google him.
He posts clever messages based on small, but controversial details to suck NG users in. Examples:
- Using airplane radio control frequencies on a land r/c. (R/c pilots get really fired up over this) - Woodworking "safety" - Some ridiculous home repair ideas - Metalworking "safety"
etc...
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"B A R R Y" wrote:

More trouble than it's worth.
Lew
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On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:09:14 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"

You are apparently lucky enough to not participate in conference calls. <G>
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I don't, I use my DeWalt 12" power miter saw, or my properly tuned RAS, used as designed.

Yes, I have seen the videos, and I am still not impressed with your contraption! Greg
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On Ripping with the RAS, Post, arm and head are in a position where they tend to get in the way of the worker unlike a table saw that is open on all sides. The arm and post of the RAS do no allow as easy of access to use push sticks which makes the operation in my opinion a little less safe and easy. While these problems can be overcome to some degree they still are there causing problems. The blade itself is a problem, with a TS you can adjust the hight of the blade to barely clear the top of the wood. This allows some degree of safety if you run your had over the blade while cutting (minor injury instead loss of hand), Your set up keeps the entire blade exposed giving more risk for major injury. One cause of kickback is the distance from the front of the blade to the fence being wider then the distance from the the back of the blade to the fence. In your set up the blade/motor can twist/flex on the arm causing this problem and thus kickback, also I am not real sure about the accuracy of your fence when it is put on and taken off like you are doing. Another cause of kickback is warped or twisted wood, with a TS you can overcome this by applying pressure to the wood as it passes the blade (not a reccomend procedure) with your set up you can not get to the wood to do this. As far as using a 3/4 inch dado head in your set up I would not even think of trying it. Saw is to underpowered to be safe that far out on the arm, arm has too much flex. JMHO
Curran Copeland
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I also just noticed the postion of your on/off switch, That could cause you a world of trouble.
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wrote:

A good observation, thanks.
However I have trained myself to slap the switch with my right hand.
I don't have to see it and my palm always hits the target.
(If it were a problem I would add another switch.)
Thanks again.
The TROLL
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Let me see if I have this right... you took a radial arm saw and put it over a table saw to rip wood....OK got it...
What a waste of time and dangerous. Why not feed it from the other direction while your at it so you don't have to spend any energy pushing the wood being cut? Post that on Youtube!
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"What a waste of time and dangerous." Why do you make this statement?
More dangerous than a table saw, radial saw, what?
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