Up spiral 1/2 bit carried pretty well. Keep the rpm up on the router and
use the vacuum extractor if you have one. I don't. I took what it gave me
on the first pass, hit with air to clear corners and took a finisher.
Some of the jigs with video online:
www.routerworkshop.com/adjusttenon.html Adjusting The Tenon
www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html Easy To Make Box
www.routerworkshop.com/columns1.html Gluing Fixture For
www.routerworkshop.com/cuttingpattern.html Making A Table
www.routerworkshop.com/dovetail45.html Dovetail Corner
www.routerworkshop.com/dovetaillegs.html Dovetail Joint For
www.routerworkshop.com/ezindex.html Extended Lengths With EZ
www.routerworkshop.com/hingetip.html A Simple Hinge
www.routerworkshop.com/pedtabledovetail.html The Pedestal
www.routerworkshop.com/quickpattern.html Best Way To Make A
www.routerworkshop.com/rbpattern.html Using A Pattern To
www.routerworkshop.com/revinlay.html Making An Inlay
www.routerworkshop.com/smstraightbit.html 1" Straight Bit
www.routerworkshop.com/spacerfenceslot.html Shelf Dividers.
www.routerworkshop.com/veinfixture.html Table Skirt Vein
www.routerworkshop.com/veinjig.html Flute and Veining
I made a simple one the opposite of this. Mine is a base that has a solid
and movable fence. The solid fence is a support for the router and the
movable fence is behind it for the router to slide against. You lay the
board to be morticed on top of the plywood against the base fence then
another base fence goes next to it and its clamped it together then end
stops clamp on top.
That would be a good enough excuse for getting the General
75-075M1, tilting head, angleable fence and XY table - if you're a
junky and no SWMBO to bitch about the price.
You can make something that works out of ply or MDF - but you'll
probably overlook a key capability and have to modify it or make
an add on. Usually end up with something that sort of works - for
one specific task, or maybe a couple. And when it's not in use
you have to find a place to store it. If you don't make, and keep
notes on how to use it the next time you go to use it there'll be
a learning curve to get over before yo get to making "the real
Then there's the Trend M& T Jig. Very easy and versatile for
mortises, not quite as easy for tenons. So simplify things and
go with "loose tenons" and just use the mortising process. Oh,
and get a couple of extra clamps - they come in handy.
You can cut angled mortises on one or two axis as well. Handy
when making chairs (not a problem with some of the A&C /
Greene & Greene / Stickley / Frank Loyd Wright / MacIntosh
Spiral upcuts have their upsides and downsides (pardon the pun).
Upside: You can plunge straight down into the mortise, where with a two
flute, you have to move back and forth as there is no cutting surface on the
point of the bit.
Downside: spiral upcuts have a tendency to be yanked down into the
workpiece. This can be alleviated by setting the stop on a plunge router.
I like to use my stop for the finished depth of the mortise, so this could
be a small problem unless you have multiple stops (most plunge routers do).
As you mentioned, they are expensive and success rates with sharpening are
(from what I've heard) not good.
I use 2 flute straight cutters for all my mortises.
my $.02 worth, ymmv, etc etc....
2 flute, solid carbide aluminum cutting end mills work as well or
better than spiral router bits and are cheaper. Also, as for
sharpening, send them (end mills or spiral router bits) to a shop that
sharpens metalworking tools. These bits would be considered simple to
these guys. I wouldn't expect wodworking tool grinders to have the
equipment to sharpen spiral bits.
I have good luck with spiral upcut, two or four flute, "end mills" of the
same diameter as the desired mortise and, besides the extra lengths
available for deep mortises, they are often cheaper. Last time I ordered,
the 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" 4 flute end mills were $16, $19, and $27
PDF of their catalog online at:
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