WWII touching Biesemeyer Splitter !!!!!!!!

The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you all think?
Give me some help here, guys. I recently purchased a Biesemeyer Splitter stock number B78440 according to the box in which it arrived. I installed it on my PM66 according to the instructions that arrived with it. I had earlier checked with Powermatic re the production date of my PM 66, serial number 01110662753, and had been told that the number indicates a 2001 production date. A call to PM left me with the information that it doesn't matter as nothing in the area of the saw in question for changing a splitter was affected by the change from 2000 to 2001. See Biesemeyer's chart below indicating that the cut-off dates were 1979 to August 2000 for two different part numbers. Regardless, I checked with the local Bies dealer: Weatherford in Austin, TX. I was told there that just as in the chart below, a saw manufactured after 2000 requires part number B78440. So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting 3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for that blade to be cranked up while running (I know, bad form, but I've seen many people do it) and knowing where the usual user's face is located when he or she is cranking the blade higher, leads me to be very glad that I can still see out of both eyes. So I unplugged the saw. Took the splitter off, reinstalled it according to the same instructions (there seem to be no degrees of freedom as to where the splitter ends up if it is line with the blade i.e except for the lateral adjustment from the left to the right side of the blade, there is no method for placing the splitter closer to or further from the blade in either a vertical direction or a front to back direction). With the saw off and unplugged, I reinstalled the WWII, cranked the blade up to approx 1 1/2" and $#&*^%& it is still touching the painted portion of the splitter. What gives, guys? Wrong part for the saw? Wrong saw for the part? Bies chart copied from web page: Splitters - For Selected Table Saws Printer Friendly Version click here Increase table saw safety by adding our anti-kickback snap-in spreader. Designed to reduce dangerous kickbacks, this spreader snaps in instantly and removes easily on saws from several manufacturers. Each spreader has a unique mounting bracket designed to easily mount to the saw using the existing mounting holes for the saws factory guard/spreader unit. Once the mounting bracket is installed, you can be assured that the spreader will be aligned with the saw blade every time it is removed and reinserted. The splitter blade is quickly removed by taking out the table insert, pulling on the spring loaded pin and pulling the blade out. Insert the spreader into the mounting bracket until the spring loaded pin engages the hole in the splitter blade to reinstall.
The Biesemeyerฎ T-Squareฎ Anti-kickback Splitter Is designed to be used inconjuction with a basket style blade guard. The splitters are not intended to be used with a thin kerf blade. Minimum saw blade thickness is 1/8". After determining the correct part number, click on the Distributors link at the bottom of the page to find a local dealer. SAW PART NO. NOTES Delta Unisaw (right tilt) 78-961 Delta Unisaw Rt Tilt & Grizzly 1023 Delta Unisaw (left tilt) 78-431 Delta Unisaw Left Tilt Delta Contractor's saw 78-963 Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw 78-963 Delta 12-14 (older 12-14 saw) 78-968 Does not fit the RT-40 Jet JTAS-10 (right tilt) B78451 Jet JTAS-10 (left tilt) B78453 Jet JWTS-10 B78452 Jet JWTS-10 & Powermatic 64 (does not fit the Powermatic 64A) General 350 B78461 Must be used with a zero clearance insert Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000 Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000 Powermatic 63 B78444
Copyright ฉ Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.
A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day at the numbers below.
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Why would you contact Forrest or Powermatic for this issue? A 10" blade is 10 inches regardless of the make and model. The Powermatic company isn't responsible for third party add ons.
Stay focused, and work with Bies tech support. The thing must be sitting lower than it should be. Without seeing it my wild ass guess is it's the wrong part or your particular unit was machined wrong.
dave
lwwise wrote:

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@msn.com (lwwise) writes:
[...]

shouldn't the splitter move up together with tha blade? Id does so on my (Metabo) saw, thus giving no problem at all in whatever height the blade is set: th splitter is always optimal, only if i would try to make a (anyway dangarous und unadvised) plunge cut i would have to remove it.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto: snipped-for-privacy@physik.uni-bonn.de Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de says...

Juergen -- unfortunately, it doesn't. Your saw has a "riving knife" that both tilts and moves up and down along with the arbor. It's a superior technology. The OP's saw, like most sold in the US, has a "splitter" that's in a fixed position and merely tilts with the arbor. When the blade is cranked up or down, it changes position relative to the splitter.
I've got the corresponding Bies splitter on my Unisaw. When the blade is cranked all the way up the clearance between the blade and splitter housing is very small -- probably 1/8" or so. OP might be able to solve the problem by judicious application of a file to the splitter housing.
Abe
--
Replace ONE with the numeral for return email.

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Work with Biesemeyer to find one that fits your saw. You wouldn't complain to a car company if your replacement tires didn't fit would you?
If you are stuck with it, grind it to fit.
-Jack
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I don't mean to state the obvious either, but most of us do, you should not make changes to the blade height with the saw running. I think you will find that most companies will tell you the same.
It's definitely a Splitter issue. Don't take no for an answer. Keep moving up the food chain when you call them to complain. Most people who answer the phone are merely talking from a script anyway.
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18 Dec 2003 15:13:31 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Elmar) wrote:

How would you deflower a zero clearance insert?
Barry
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I installed a Merlin splittter on a Jet Contractor's saw and when the blade is all the way up I can't believe how close it is. about 1/64 of an inch clearance.
Although I like the slpitter, it's hard to believe that the company went to market with a design that leaves so little clearance. I also had to do more filing to the mount than was stated in the directions.
Ken

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mine was also slightly too large so I merely ground off a "little". Too much and it won't function. Actually I filed it off; grinding can do too much too quickly.
On 18 Dec 2003 07:41:29 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@msn.com (lwwise) wrote:

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Maybe it's Delta's way (they own Biesmeyer) of shafting PM owners.
Contact the Biesmeyer legal department, and explain how you almost lost an eye, and then tell them all you want is a properly fitting splitter. My guess is you will have one FedExed to you, with few coupons.
It does sound like the wrong splitter is on the saw.
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Let's try another way of determining which splitter to use.
Is the trunion on your PM66 painted black or gold?
If gold then try the B78441 If black then try B78440
Biesemeyer is good to work with. Ask them to send you two bodies (the actual splitter is the same), one B78441 and one B78440. See if the B78440 is the same as the one you installed (is the hole in the same place), if not then the B78440 you have might be defective. If they're the same then the B78441 might work for you.

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks to all who responded, even the inane "a ten inch blade is a ten inch blade." Turns out that the WWII *IS* somewhat greater than an eighth on an inch greater in diameter than all the other blades that I have. No scientific sample but the two DeWalts and the Freud are within thousandths of the same diameter based on lining them up on the cast iron table and feeling the overlap with a well calibrated finger. I don't have the means of measuring the diameter to a thousandth, but the measurement from the outside of the arbor hole to the edge of the tooth is approx .07+ inches greater on the WWII. That makes for .14+ inches greater in diameter. MUCH greater than I would have expected. All the other blades work just fine with the splitter. Sure seems someone else would have seen the problem before I did. Maybe Bies or Forrest should let people know. I'll remind you all that the response from the lady at Bies was "You using a Forrest blade?"
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hey, bozo, here's a case when a 10 inch blade, ISN'T ten inches. So why are you bellyaching at my response? I TOLD you a 10 inch blade should be 10 inches, and your Forest WASN'T. SO that gives you license to make a rude response about my "inane" statement. MORON! See if I ever clue you in again, you ungrateful wretch! Jeez!
Merry Christmas!
lwwise wrote:

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

dave/fow, How did you clue him in? By giving erroneous information? Then, or course, you have to attempt to hide your ignorance by throwing insults. Well, guess what, your attempt at hiding didn't work.
Your next recourse will be to say you were jusy kidding, then it's time for fow to make an appearance. It's all getting very tiring. Just go away. Go back to spamming the camera, health, and dog groups.
The sad part is, you wouldn't say any of this to somebody face to face. You'd just sit in the corner with your needle dick stuffed between your legs.
Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dave, this guy thinks were the same person. Ha !

Add pictures here
โœ–
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.