WWII!

[Toller]

I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.

But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one. Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together, so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.

Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat shiny.

How long does it stay this good?

[BobS]

Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)

I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of needing sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave any burn marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.

Bob S.

[Leon]

Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one when the other is being sharpened.

PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it right.

[New Wave Dave]

I'm betting Circle Saw?

[Swingman]

I'm on the verge of buying a third one. Suddenly, I've got two that need to be sharpened and I don't want to be without.

[Frank]

Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard wood).

BobS wrote:

[Leon]

Get the regular kerf. A good regular kerf blade is better than a medium quality thin kerf.

[Leon]

MVP Sharpeners on the west belt.

[Leon]

LOL, I am almost in that same boat. I have been setting on one that has needed to be sharpened for a year now.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Yes, and so is my Ridge Carbide blade. You don't need the thin kerf with that power. My Delta 1.5 hp goes through thick oak rather easily.

It is not always easy to justify the added expense, but it sure does pay. When you buy a good bottle of liquor, it looks the same, side by side, as the cheap stuff, but when you take a sip, you can certainly tell.

[Leon]

Wax it? To prevent rust maybe?

[Andrew Williams]

The first time I pushed some purpleheart through the WWII I knew it was worth the money I paid for it.

[Mark & Juanita]

Sounds like my jointer and planer blades. I've got a set of each that I've needed to get sharpened sitting on the "to the house" cabinet surface for about that long. I've got to get them sharpened soon, the ones in the jointer and planer now are getting close to needing sharpening. Last goober that sharpened them really made a mess of the job; I need a better sharpening house in Tucson than Precision Tool.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

[tom]

[B A R R Y]

In my experience, quite a while. Wait until you see a Chopmaster and Dado King!

To be fair, I've seen other blades that are just as good, such as Ridge Carbide, but they cost the same or more as a comparable Forrest.

[Frank Boettcher]

never used one but on that same subject, does anyone use the Chopmaster for cross cutting. I bought one at IWF (haven't recieved it yet, supposed to ship today) based on the show demo.

While I've always been satisfied with my Leitz combo for the table saw (have three), never had a decent negative hook cross cut blade.

Hope it is worth the money.

Frank

[BobS]

Frank,

If you plan on cutting a lot of hardwood stock that exceeds 8/4, with that 1

3/4hp motor then you would probably be best served with the thin kerf blade and use a 4" stabilizer with it. Otherwise - go with the 1/8" kerf blade.

When I had a Delta CS (1 1/2hp), I had the thin-kerf WWII and it worked great but cutting thick hard maple was a challenge. I upgraded to a cabinet saw with a 3hp motor and sold the thin-kerf blade and went with the 1/8" kerf blade. I have ripped 7' lengths of 12/4 hard maple when I was making some French doors for my niece's renovation project. No burn marks. Try that with a lesser quality blade. Yes, you do need well tuned tablesaw but it's the blade that makes all the difference.

Bob S.

[Toller]

Is the chopmaster a negative angle? I really need a better blade for my RAS. Try it out and let us know how it is.

[Doug Miller]

You've got to be kidding. The Ridge Carbide Northwoods dado set is about 60% of the price of the Forrest Dado King -- and cuts a flatter bottom.

[New Wave Dave]

So that's where they moved! I've been looking for MVP since they left their South Post Oak location; had a phone number on a scrap of paper floating around in my truck console for two or three years but it was a no-no when I finally got around to trying it. That's really good news since I'm right at Beltway 8 and 290.