I always thought the guys talking about their great WWIIs were suffering
from "expensive tool" syndrome; an expensive tool has to be better than a
cheap tool. I thought my Freud blades were fine.
But when Amazon had it on sale for $60 a few months ago I had to buy one.
Finally got around to trying it today. I am gluing 2 end grains together,
so I needed them perfect. I was planning on making a light pass with a
router afterwards, just to make them perfectly smooth.
Well, it isn't necessary. These cuts are so perfect they are somewhat
How long does it stay this good?
Depends on how many cheap 2 by 4's ya plan on cutting........;-)
I've had mine for 3 years with "fair" amount of use and no signs of needing
sharpening yet. It will still rip 12/4 hard maple and not leave any burn
marks. Keep it clean and wax it occasionally.
Are they *that* good? Is the Thin-kerf version equally good? I'm
thinking of getting one for my saw - its a 1 3/4 hp hybrid delta and I
was thinking that a WWII thin-kerf blade might be better than the
regular kerf freud I've been using (when it comes to thick or very hard
Yes, and so is my Ridge Carbide blade. You don't need the thin kerf with
that power. My Delta 1.5 hp goes through thick oak rather easily.
It is not always easy to justify the added expense, but it sure does pay.
When you buy a good bottle of liquor, it looks the same, side by side, as
the cheap stuff, but when you take a sip, you can certainly tell.
If you plan on cutting a lot of hardwood stock that exceeds 8/4, with that 1
3/4hp motor then you would probably be best served with the thin kerf blade
and use a 4" stabilizer with it. Otherwise - go with the 1/8" kerf blade.
When I had a Delta CS (1 1/2hp), I had the thin-kerf WWII and it worked
great but cutting thick hard maple was a challenge. I upgraded to a cabinet
saw with a 3hp motor and sold the thin-kerf blade and went with the 1/8"
kerf blade. I have ripped 7' lengths of 12/4 hard maple when I was making
some French doors for my niece's renovation project. No burn marks. Try
that with a lesser quality blade. Yes, you do need well tuned tablesaw but
it's the blade that makes all the difference.
Well, while many get good results with other brands the WWII keeps
delivering good results. I keep 2 on hand so I am never with out one when
the other is being sharpened.
PLEASE return to Forrest to have it resharpened and or tuned up when that
time comes. I learned the hard way that my local service with computer
controlled sharpening machines simply don't come close to getting it right.
So that's where they moved! I've been looking for MVP since they
left their South Post Oak location; had a phone number on a scrap of
paper floating around in my truck console for two or three years but it
was a no-no when I finally got around to trying it.
That's really good news since I'm right at Beltway 8 and 290.
They moved there about 7-10 years ago. They are/were almost directly
across the West beltway from Harwood Products. IIRC they have moved again
17535 Huffmeister Rd
Keep in mind that when they moved they were basically out of the tool
business except for blades and sharpening.
Thank yew, kind sir. Sharpening is all I ever used them for anyway.
I recently used Woodcraft to do two sets of joiner knives but, of
course I was in the day after pickup which meant a week went by before
next pickup and then another week turn-around. Sigh.
You might want to consider Forrest for the resharpening service. My history
with MVP has been good. I started buying from them in 1988. The father was
still running the company and the son went around selling sharpening
services to the locals. I bought my first good blade from them and used
them as my sharpening service up until about 2004. I let them give it a try
on my Forrest WWII with the guarantee that it would be as good as new. It
was not and was far from it. It did cut faster but the cut was rough. 3
weeks later I returned it to Forrest and got it back literally as good as
new. MVP does not straighten blades. I don't doubt that MVP can still do
a good sharpening job but as time goes by blades do not remain true gor what
ever reason. Forrest can reflatten the blade and that had as much to do
with a good smooth cut as a sharp blade. If I did not resharpen my jointer
and planer knives myself I would let MVP do the work.
Sounds like my jointer and planer blades. I've got a set of each that
I've needed to get sharpened sitting on the "to the house" cabinet surface
for about that long. I've got to get them sharpened soon, the ones in the
jointer and planer now are getting close to needing sharpening. Last
goober that sharpened them really made a mess of the job; I need a better
sharpening house in Tucson than Precision Tool.
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
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