Be sure to check the PBS listings. That's where I get my fix of
"New Yankee Workshop" and "Woodwright's Shop" (for opposite ends
of the power tool spectrum).
(Back to lurking, while pondering what would happen if Norm and Roy
collaborated on a show.)
|Drew Lawson | Of all the things I've lost |
| firstname.lastname@example.org | I miss my mind the most |
I'm sure we've all used that rationalization. But don't kid yourself.
You will not know when to use cheap materials and when to use better,
so you will buy all good stuff and spend more on materials than a pro
will. Or you will cut corners when you shouldn't, then have to throw
away the bad materials and replace with good, spending more on
materials than a pro will. Or you will screw up something and end up
spending more on materials than a pro will.
And often when making something, you will not be willing to accept the
compromises that you find perfectly acceptable when buying a finished
piece of furniture.
P.S. I still use that rationalization, but it is not myself that I am
trying to convince<g>.
That, to me, is a better reason for doing the work, if you need one
other than enjoying it.
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Check with the Woodcraft store in Pompano Beach, 1157
South Federal Highway. Their phone is 954.785.6321.
The Woodcraft stores have a pretty good lineup of
classes at reasonable prices. I've taken Woodcraft
classes in Orlando and Jacksonville.
(A Note of Caution: I'm finding there may be some truth
in the adage about old dogs and new tricks!)
The Woodcraft stores can also give you information on
local woodworking and woodturning clubs.
You might also check the Constantine's store in Ft.
Lauderdale for classes and clubs.
Good hunting and welcome aboard,
"Corner of My Mind" < email@example.com> wrote in
This seems like an excellent idea. Thanks.
They have 22 classes taught at the nearest location. Of those, I'm
guessing the following 3 would be most beneficial for a newbie like me:
* "Woodturning 101 & 201" - 2 Days (15 hours total - lunches?) for $250
* "Tablesaws from A to Z" - 1 Day for $75
* "Learning the Router" - 1 Day (5.5 hours - lunch?) for $75 + materials
So, for about $400 I can become a pro :)
I didn't find any classes listed on their website
(http://www.constantines.com /) but I'll drop by and get to know the
place as well as Woodcraft store
Oh, I don't know. Turning can keep some of us occupied for years and there's
a lot less tools required. One lathe, a half dozen gouges, scrapers, and
chisels, a grinder, and maybe a few sharpening jigs and the OP is in
business. Add a chuck and a couple of extra jaw sets after the initial
practicing. The whole thing could be done for around $1000, although I'd
spring for the new General mini-lathe with the swiveling head which would add
around $300 more.
And in many cases, practice wood is free.
Of course, there's a lot more turning stuff out there to spend money on if
you're a tool junkie - DAMHIKT :-).
Ok... now I need to confess my ignorance/newbieness.
When I initially saw the list of classes and read their description, I
was thinking "woodworking 101 & 201" and not "woodturning 101 & 201". I
did not realize my mistake until I read your post.
I think Table Saw and Router would be more beneficial for me if what I'm
initially interested in building are built-in bookcases, window seat,
and other items that have minimal rounded pieces.
I've taken 2 classes at the Woodcraft store in Pompano - a one evening
turning class and one on sharpening your turning tools. The turning class
was with Dean and was very good - all hands-on and left with my first bowl
:). The sharpening class was even better - they had to cancel but I never
got the message and drove 20 miles anyway, so Jay, the manager, took my in
back and showed me how, cranked up a lathe for me to test the newly
sharpened gouges on, and gave me some advice to correct my technique. I
plan on going back to take the "Woodturning 101 & 201" from Lee Sky soon -
he's very good.
Well...this is a completely opposite experience than Bill experienced
when he took the router class. I wonder if the teaching technique is
different based on the class or based on the store/teacher. Since I
would be going to the pompano store also because it is the local one to
me, this makes me feel a little better.
I suspect that it is store / teacher specific and that is why I
suggested nosing around before signing up. The Pompano store has had a
good recommendation. Two year ago I'd have given my local store much the
same recommendation as a former in-law was teaching many of the classes
then. We don't keep in touch much and he seems to have moved on. Pity
... he actually knew what he was doing and how to present it.
I agree with the table saw. I probably use it more than any other
power tool in the shop. But, you can do woodworking for a lifetime
and not use a table saw at all. I have two routers and these are
useful and very versatile tools also. Quality hand tools are a good
investment as they can last a liftetime and many still prove useful
after you buy power tools.
Interesting paradox. A tool that is used most often but is not needed.
The question is how does a newbie spot a quality tool if he doesn't know
what to look for? Is there a brand that is known to only product
quality tools? Just look for the most expensive of that tool available?
On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 09:57:49 -0400, Corner of My Mind
General rule of thumb, you get what you pay for a $99 tablesaw versus
a $500 as far a portables. A good fence though can make a cheap saw
better. Google can be a good help, you can find reviews and opinions
of the tool in question. When getting ready to purchase find a dealer
who will let you touch and use it prior to investing your money in the
(sixoneeight) = 618
Yes, it does seem paradoxical, but my experience is the same as SWD's.
I'll explain it this way: For 80% of the wood cutting I do (excluding
hand-cut joinery), the table saw is the most convenient and does the
best job. So it gets used the most. For the occasional crosscut of
heavy/long/unwieldy boards, I will use the radial arm saw, but could
do it on a table saw with outrigger supports. For resawing (cutting a
board across its thickness dimension), I will use the bandsaw (the
only way for wider boards, and the best way for all). For ripping
thick or gnarly wood, for cuts in very small pieces of wood, or for
curved cuts, I will use the bandsaw (safest for problem rips and cuts
of small pieces). If I had to have only one stationary power saw, I'd
choose the bandsaw, but I'd have to plane all the rip cuts I did to
get as straight an edge as I would get off the table saw.
That's where a class will help, as long as you keep in mind that a
class in a Woodcraft store might not recommend, e.g., tools you can
get off ebay <g>.
Sure. It's hard to go wrong with Veritas (direct from Lee Valley, and
some lines, but not planes, distributed through other retail channels
such as Woodcraft) or Lie-Nielsen (direct or retailers such as
woodcraft). But in my opinion, they might be a little pricey--good
value and worth the price if you will be using them, but maybe too
much to spend before you see where your interests lie.
Of course, that works, but might not be the best approach.
It's hard to go wrong with a Holtey (or Sauer & Steiner, or Marcou, or
...), but I don't think I would be able to appreciate its value.
Of course, don't go purely by price, or you will find yourself getting
collectibles rather than users:
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
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