Woodworker II Saw Blade / Boshield

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A week or so ago I posted here asking for opinions about the WWII table saw blade. Based on the comments I got here I decided to buy one. Wow! I think I could split the atom with that thing!
I got psyched up and finally used the Rust Remover and Boshield I've had on the shelf for a while, (also something that I learned about here). I've had this machine for forty years and it was old when I got it. Now, the table is back to being metallic silver. Unbelievable.
You guys really gave me a good steer.
I came across this on the net. Next time I'm away for a couple of weeks I may try this with the upright support of the drill press.
Video: Removing rust with potatoes http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips_Archives/SST114_Rust_Removal.htm
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On 9/23/10 4:12 PM, KIMOSABE wrote:

Was it the Boeshield Rustfree and T-9 system? Those two are the absolute best at their jobs.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Yep, that's the stuff.
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FYI in a HUMID environment I prefer TopCote for protecting the TS top. I can get rust over night, actually in a matter of hours if my top is not protected. I tried Boeshield from the recommendation of others on my new saw 10 years ago however it was not effective unless I sprayed a coat that was so thick that it had to be removed before use. I have been using a form of TopCote for 20+ years going back to when the Empire Top Savers guys originally marketed it as a top lubricant. Just so happened it prevented rust too. Any way I went back to the TopCote and I don't give rust a second thought. If Boeshield works for you, great. If you want something that works better with less input from you, try TopCote, you spray it on and do not have to wipe off any residue.
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On 9/24/2010 10:12 AM, Leon wrote:

+1
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Last update: 4/15/2010
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For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand] paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with whatever finish you'd later apply).
I have pretty good luck on the CI surfaces with WD-40, applied with a green ScotchBrite pad, and -- rather than elbow grease -- my random orbit sander.
I top it off with a couple layers of paste wax.
That said, I think the critical range, for cast iron, is staying below 45-50% humidity. If you can do that, you're usually okay with minor maintenance.
I'm in Northern Colorado, so I actually *humidify* my whole house and shop, but stay in the 42% range, and see no signs of rust.
Above 50% RH, you may want to consider de-humidifying, whether via a/c or a dedicated (and, preferably, plumbed) de-humidifier.
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wrote:

form
second
For that matter, many people have luck with [insert your favorite brand] paste wax ... provided it does NOT contain silicons (which mess with whatever finish you'd later apply).
I have pretty good luck on the CI surfaces with WD-40, applied with a green ScotchBrite pad, and -- rather than elbow grease -- my random orbit sander.
I top it off with a couple layers of paste wax.
That said, I think the critical range, for cast iron, is staying below 45-50% humidity. If you can do that, you're usually okay with minor maintenance.
I'm in Northern Colorado, so I actually *humidify* my whole house and shop, but stay in the 42% range, and see no signs of rust.
Above 50% RH, you may want to consider de-humidifying, whether via a/c or a dedicated (and, preferably, plumbed) de-humidifier.
* *which scotch-brite pad do you use? I have been using the brown one with my random orbital sander and follow with Johnson's paste wax. I no longer use WD-40 as I used to, but maybe I should...
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Typically, I use these:
http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BriteBrand/Scotch-Brite/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U52300V2E0I02BK7KM0GT3_nid=RWGDPNXX08gsBBDGVJTLBMglJC3NXJH2HPbl&prodID=RWGDPNXX08gs&lang=en_US
But ... I presume one could get by with their "non-scratch" version:
http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BriteBrand/Scotch-Brite/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U52300V2E0I02BK7KM0GT3_nid=FB0W0RDLH6gsBBDGVJTLBMglSFX0KC7NGSbl&prodID=FB0W0RDLH6gs&lang=en_US
WD is frowned upon in many circles -- largely because it does a MILLION things fairly well, but NOTHING exceptionally well.
According to its MSDS, though, it's basically a blend of mineral spirits and a petroleum distillate, as a lubricant.
For my money (I do a lot of wrenching on bicycles), it serves as an excellent cleaner, and a mediocre lubricant (read: rather light- weight, and not terribly long-lasting).
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On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:54:32 -0500, woodstuff wrote:

Since I sand *after* cutting the pieces, silicone isn't a problem. Isn't that the usual sequence?
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Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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Sure.
I suspect there's a question about how far a silicon might penetrate into the wood, and whether your sanding will remove ALL of it, though.
Sincere there are a boatload of good waxes, for woodworking use, that do not have silicon in them, it might be better to look at it (using a wax that contains silicon) as ... some risk, very little reward.
This is one of those "conventional wisdom" issues. It seems consistent across LOTS of websites. It also sounds intuitively reasonable to me.
But .... I don't know it to be The Gospel ;-)
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On 9/24/2010 4:10 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Silicone is a pain in the butt. Doesn't take much of it to mess up your finish and it transfers _very_ easily. Once a little gets on the sandpaper it spreads as you sand.
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KIMOSABE wrote: ...

...
Oh, bull...
:)
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Correction. That steer was no bull.
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Robert Bonomi wrote:

Correction. All steers _were_ bulls...
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On 9/28/10 4:24 PM, dpb wrote:

Is the diff... snip snip?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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... a harvest of mountain oysters.
Now, a bum steer is someting -entirely- different.
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Fun home experiment using a potato but two weeks and you still need elbow grease?
Recently I acquired a couple of hand planes, chisels and other older Stanley tools that were fairly rusted from being out in Grandpa's old work shed. I didn't want to damage the enamel, so I skipped electrolysis and harsh chemicals and tried Evapo-Rust. This stuff works like a charm! In 30 minutes all surface rust was gone and in several hours even the toughest and deepest rust was gone.
Best part is this stuff is non-toxic and biodegradable and even leaves a protective coating that will last for several weeks. I managed to clean all my rusty tools with one pint. I was skeptical, but not anymore. So if you've got some ugly rust to deal with, check it out...
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html?gclid=CLKHwt7WrKQCFdJL5QodmQ63bg
`Casper
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On 9/29/2010 8:03 AM, Casper wrote:

Where did you find it, or did you have to order it online?
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http://www.evapo-rust.com/wheretobuyit /
I see it is in Houston.
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