Wooden Viking swords

The handle was not like the pictures of viking swords. That is, it was much wider than the blade, and the handle was big enough to be was two handed. I think I used 2 pieces of 1 by 6 pine, and the mortise/slot was cut into each half.

I used a jig or scroll saw to cut the handle into the basic shape, and when the blade's "tang" was inserted, I screwed and glued the two pieces together. Then I wrapped rope/cord around the handle, covering up the screws. It was a very fast project to do. Something like an hour.

Reply to
Maxwell Lol
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Agreed. As a senator from New York once said: "We have a three-hundred year supply of guns, but only a ten-year supply of ammunition. Let's tax bullets out of existence."

I reload.

Reply to
HeyBub

Mine, pictures rather than plans but I'm sure you can work it out.

Blades are beech, the rest is lime (linden/basswood). Most of the work is done with a spokeshave and block plane. Woodie moulder for the central fuller. You really need a full tang (blade continues right through) or a wooden sword will snap clean off at the hilt the first time it strikes the ground.

Finish is silver wax from the crafts shop. You can go crazy with carving, gilding and semi-precious stone inlay if you want (eBay rubies are amazingly cheap these days!)

Most children can easily kill with one of these. That might or might not be what you intended. Go easy on who you give them to. I wouldn't make even a wooden edge on a sword for a kid. 1/2 min. diameter on the edge rounding.

Search for the SCA or LARP rules on how to make something a bit less hazardous (bundled rattan or foam wraps) if you're planning to actually contact each other with it.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Thanks everyone for your contributions. I have taken a bit from here and bit from there and will post my finished sword when I'm done. Cheers Ed.

Reply to
ETaylor

Nerf sword. Black foam rubber would look just as neat as silver.

Reply to
Ferd Farkel

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