WOODEN BANDSAW GUIDE BLOCKS

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http://home.mchsi.com/~lawlhote/guideblocks/guideblockspage.htm
This has obviously been discussed here before. However, I never tried it. But I've not been thrilled with my present metal guide blocks for a bit and decided to give wooden guide blocks a try.
The thing is I'm wondering what wood to try. First at any rate. Quite awhile back I got some hardwood floor samples. They're about 4X4", or a bit larger, and a few are laminated. Nothing really large enough to make anything out of, but figure I might save a couple of the imported pieces until I can think of something, maybe trim, inlay, whatever - like the Brazilian cherry, and Massaranduba. The ipe is definitely interesting, so I'll groupt it with the ash, red oak, maple, birch, black walnut, cherry, as potentials. I'll be giving the WD-40 a shot too.
I won't be doing this immediately, so thought I'd just check if any of you have tried this, and if so, what type of wood seems to work best for you. I'll be doing it regardless, but haven't decided yet which wood to try first.
Hmm, a stray thought just zipped thru my mind - most of those are just the right size to make a pair of pistol, or revolver, gips. Think I'll hold back on using the black walnut and maple for this project, maybe one or two more too. That black walnut, or cherry, would probably look good on the wondernine.
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blocks. Red Oak is my choice followed by White Oak. Maple did not do well in use for me. I soak the block with wd-40. Problems I have found are that the block will scorch, harden and wear a little faster then I would like but the are easy to refurbish and last as long or longer then cool blocks.
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 9:13am (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (CurranCopeland) doth sayeth: I have used red oak, white oak and hard maple <snip>
Interesting. I'da thought maple would have been much better than oak.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) writes:

I'd recommend lignum vitae, if you have access to some.
scott
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 9:03pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (ScottLurndal) doth recommendeth: I'd recommend lignum vitae, if you have access to some.
That's not gonna happen - unless someone gives me some. Don't have any in the samples, and I stopped buying any wood except plywood or wood native to NC years back. The only times I work with furrin wood is if it's free to me. Of course, if you want to send me 50 or 60 board feet I'll try it. LOL
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On Jan 16, 6:04 pm, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

You don't really want 50-60 board feet of lignum vitae: it's for projects like mallets--and bandsaw guides. A waxy, waxy, waxy wood once used for bearings for ship propellors. Rare, endangered, expensive as all get out now.
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Charlie Self wrote:

Still used for shaft bearings.
Don't know if they still do but CWG Hardwood Outlet used to have short pieces in stock--4/4 and seldom as long as 2 feet. I have a few of them that I'm slowly using up.
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On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:52:14 -0800, Charlie Self wrote:

According to an aquaintance who's into all things marine, they're still used for bearings in some ships. Apparently lasts longer than metal in that application.
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On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 16:59:34 -0800, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Gotta watch out for that shaft rub and beaver squeak in naval applications. Seriously!
I was going to provide proof but I googled for those terms and ...um... I gotta go... ;-)
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PCPaul said:

To practice foreplay, one could assume. ;-)
Greg G.
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It was used in the bearings of the Conowingo Hydro-electic dam which is about forty miles from my home. I used to ski on the lower Susquehanna south of the dam. (Now I prefer to ski mountains rather than wakes...)
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 3:52pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com (CharlieSelf) doth sayeth: You don't really want 50-60 board feet of lignum vitae: it's for projects like mallets--and bandsaw guides. A waxy, waxy, waxy wood once used for bearings for ship propellors. Rare, endangered, expensive as all get out now.
LOL I doubt seriously anyone would actually send me that much, but it never hurts to ask. Now we bagain from there until we get to an amount he is actually willing to send. Hey, it's a sacrifice for the Woodworking Gods. And, I've been wondering what I would do for bearings on my steamboat drive shaft when it gets that far. And, as long as it's free, it's always popuar wood. LOL
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On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 18:04:14 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

hey JOAT! I got a small pieceof lignum vitie hangin round here someplace. I could lop off a piece big enough for cool blocks if ya want to come pick it up. gonna be in the shop tomorrow. drop a line here and i'll get back to ya. I'm near youngsville though so the gas might cost ya more than its worth! :-}
skeez
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 8:41pm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (skeez) doth offereth: hey JOAT! I got a small pieceof lignum vitie hangin round here someplace. I could lop off a piece big enough for cool blocks if ya want to come pick it up. gonna be in the shop tomorrow. drop a line here and i'll get back to ya. I'm near youngsville though so the gas might cost ya more than its worth! :-}
I just looked at the Atlas. You're not :really: far from me, but I could probably buy a small tree for the gas it would cost me. LMAO If you wanna mail it, I'd be more than willing to cover postage. Best I can do. LOL I wouldn't be able to get that far tomorow anyway. But, thanks for the offer.
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On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:36:44 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

I have an employee that lives in claytonia! will see if he can get a chunk to ya. try to let ya know tomorrow. yur right bout the gas! lol
skeez
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J T wrote:

It is more likely to be sold by the pound. Knife making supply places often have it as do many marinas. The latter is not a good source because it has likely been stored underwater.
You can either buy a bit or screw around with third rate stuff.
--

dadiOH
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Thu, Jan 17, 2008, 11:11am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@guesswhere.com (dadiOH) <snip> You can either buy a bit or screw around with third rate stuff. You DID have this in your post: J T wrote: Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 9:03pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) doth recommendeth: I'd recommend lignum vitae, if you have access to some. That's not gonna happen - unless someone gives me some. Don't have any in the samples, and I stopped buying any wood except plywood or wood native to NC years back. The only times I work with furrin wood is if it's free to me. Of course, if you want to send me 50 or 60 board feet I'll try it. LOL
You did read it, right? If it doesn't grow in NC, I'm not buying it. The only wood I work with NOT grown in NC is wood I get free. Feel free to send me some, otherwise I'll be sticking with the (in your words) third-rate stuff.
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(Curran Copeland) doth sayeth: I have used red oak, white oak and hard maple <snip>
Interesting. I'da thought maple would have been much better than oak.
So did I but it didn't in my experence, give it a try and see how it works for you. Both oak and maple work better then cool blocks for me though.
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Red oak endgrain has to be the best I've tried. Real hard. Used it all the time at school, where kids abused the tools.
I don't do cool blocks except with thin blades where I'm likely to chew them with the teeth. Ceramics are durable, slick, and cheap. I even have the thrust ceramic "bearings."
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 3:41pm (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (CurranCopeland) doth sayeth: So did I but it didn't in my experence, give it a try and see how it works for you. Both oak and maple work better then cool blocks for me though.
IDefinitely will give it a shot. One reason I'm gonna try wood is because I don't feel like paying for cool blocks. I'm frugal, not cheap. LOL
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