Woodcraft vs Rockler

On their generic stuff is their anyone that has used both and see any difference in overall quality in things like chisels, router bits, Forstner bits. speaking of woodriver vs Rockler ??

Like I thought I got a good deal on a set but only got about 15 or so holes using a 3/4? bit, and the young lady at their store said yep, that is about all they are good for. :(

So I figured well at least I got a few good holes, and when I replace it, I'll go for a better brand. But I don't see any with carbide cutting surfaces. At least not yet.

Reply to
OFWW
Loading thread data ...

Both of their house brand stuff is the same Chiwanese crap. It is what it is. Take any house branded tools in either store, divide the price in half, and if it woulds too good to be true, it is.

If you need something for hundreds of holes, like a 35mm (1-3/8") concealed hinge Forstner bit, go with something name-brand and not the house generic.

I pick up their stuff when it goes on sale for 50% off and consider it "bonus" tools that I keep in the van for when I need it. But I never, ever consider any of the Woo-Driver or Rockler Blue s**te production quality tools.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I was afraid of that.

When I was working for a living I remember a wood bit that came out that had a head like a Forstner bit, short shank but it was touted as being able to almost make a U turn in the wood. Well it can in real handy for running copper tubing, and power in the studs and headers of walls and lasted, well long enough I don't remember buying any more when one got lost or a new guy came in.

When I saw these Forstner bits for wood working I though Great, they must even be better. Bah humbug, wasn't the case.

I just bought three different 3/4 bits at Home despot, one or two? With carbide, going to see which works better. All Name brands.

For my router bits I now go to a sharpening shop where they actually stock the good stuff. Oddly the prices aren't all that much different for one-offs.

Reply to
OFWW

I do find that Rocker is typically less expensive than Woodcraft and that may be a regional thing.

As far as anything Chinese that cuts I would steer clear if you want quality. I would hate to think that you have to get carbide to get an edge that lasts, considering Forstner bits. I have an Austrian made set of Forstner bits that I bought probably 30 years ago. Pretty much still cut very well. I know that I have drilled many hundreds of holes with the 1.375", bit a good substitute for a 35mm bit.

It finally wore out and I replaced with the Rockler carbide bit a few years ago, it is simply "ok".

Look for HSS drill bits and you will do much better.

Reply to
Leon

If you want good you will have to pay for it.

formatting link

Even the regular Freud bits hold up well. I've been using some of mine for

15+ years but their carbide bits are supposed to be fantastic.
Reply to
John McGaw

I have to back off on my statement a bit. (

Reply to
-MIKE-

I penned about 4 paragraphs, then found this:

nb

Reply to
notbob

I hadn't seen that one.

In looking at carbide bits at the box stores the cheap ones have thinner carbide "Teeth"? tips?

Is that one still easy to see the center point of the bit when spinning?

Reply to
OFWW

I'll try that, I dbl checked the woodriver set and they didn't say. Funny thing is they start off with the same line as their Carbide 35mm bit.

formatting link

These do burn if not kept within the specified RPM of the size. Even then it depends on the wood drilled.

Reply to
OFWW

Excellent article. I would have loved to have had that "installer bit" when I was working. I found the section on bit coatings to be particularly true when working with metals of all types.

It is the wood stuff that is my short comings, but their article was great on this, even has the links built in.

Thanks for the great find.

HF has brad bits, and coated bits that are cheap and work well. At least for the money. I've bought them as throw away's for particular jobs, but ended up keeping them in a tool box for usage on the job.

Reply to
OFWW

Ah, yes. 3D Zip Bits. I have a set my dad gave me many years ago. I've destroyed the cutting edges on one of them when it cut into a wad of framing naits. Yes a wad. LOL. The others look almost like new except for the expected rub marks from drilling. I think the biggest in my set is 1-1/4. Maybe only 1-1/8.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

Glad you enjoyed it. I know I did.

I started to write about my experiences as a machinist and HSS and tungsten carbide bits, but I needed to check some facts and I found this article and learned a few new things, myself. ;)

nb

Reply to
notbob

Don't know if you realize it, but carbide is stronger than HSS, but not sharper. HSS can be sharpened much sharper than Carbide.

Carbide lasts longer, takes high heat better, but for a real sharp cut, HSS wins. Just don't overheat it, and the other thing is you can resharpen it. Carbide requires a silicon wheel or diamond to sharpen, while HSS can be sharpened with anything.

so if you want sharp and something that can be maintained, HSS.

Reply to
woodchucker

That was such BS. HSS for just aluminum, really ..

So most of the milling bits are HSS, I use HSS bits for steel all the time, I cut other HSS with them.

the Cobalt bits I have are for harder tough to cut metals.

The thing about carbide is you need to spin it at a much higher speed to work it.

Reply to
woodchucker

then you of all people know that HSS is not as light duty as the lowes chart claims.

HSS can do interrupted cutting, for carbide you need a different grade.

there's nothing wrong with good HSS.

Reply to
woodchucker

I do. HSS is all you really need fer any wood or metal.

Usta grind my own HSS lathe bits (w/ chip breaker) to turn 1-1/2" thk X 18" dia SS Flanges. We only got into carbide bits much later. as they became more popular and available fer production machining. I was wondering about those "titanium" and "black oxide" drill bits and other weirdness I see at hardware chain stores in bubble paks. I didn't know they were merely titanium and blk oxide "coated" HSS. I don't recall seeing "HSS" on the bubble card, anywhere. ;)

nb

Reply to
notbob

Honestly, I couldn't say. I set up a positioning jig on my drill press the last time I used it because I was doing dozens of doors.

I also ground down the tip because the door frames were pretty thin and I didn't want to risk poking out the front side of the door frames.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I truly didn't know that. I have had a lot of HSS bits, destroyed some on jobs and had no spares, but always seemed I could cut or grind off that bad parts and then sharpen them and they almost always seemed to be better than when I first got them. Never understood why, but what very glad when it happened. Going to a store to purchase another, if they even had the right sizes ate up a lot of time. Much faster this way.

Is there a minimum standard for HSS? Reason I ask is some say their bits are, yet there is a huge difference in quality.

Reply to
OFWW

Many tools from the factory are mediocre mass produced sharpened. If you are good at sharpening you can usually do better.

Not sure if there is a standard, but when cost is more important than quality, heat treating may not be as good as another brand.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

This last comment reminded me of 8th grade metal shop when we made our own chisels. The point was to pound out the 3/8" Hex cold rolled steel, flatten it on both sides equally, file it, then heat treat it by open flame and sand and oil for tempering. I forgot which came first, oil or sand, but watching the heat travel up the shaft with all its colors was intriguing, especially the blue. Then we had to shape and sharpen the bit, and finally cut something in half. I've forgotten what.

I'll never forget the look on some of the kids faces when their chisel tip shaped itself to the object we were to cut off, knowing my time was coming, and fearful that my chisel would meet the same fate. Well, my chisel passed with flying colors and you couldn't even tell when looking at the edge that it had cut anything. I don't even remember what the grade was on it, but I was very happy, and couldn't wait to show my Dad. I'd swear that even today it is the best chisel I ever had, and as yet I have never had to re sharpen it. But I really don't like to use it unless it cannot be helped since a small chisel is sometimes the only tool for the job.

I have found that on Craftsman Chisels you pretty much have to flatten the tips, then regrind the tip to get to the hardened material, and that was over 30 years ago. Like some of the drill bits people have mentioned here, good ones seem to last forever.

And like you said, re sharpening any tool is almost a given due to mass production standards.

Reply to
OFWW

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.