Wood Storage

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Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

I use a surplus pallet rack I got for free that looks a lot like this, minus the wire shelves:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7f44ziTE_N4/maxresdefault.jpg
Mine is all green, 6 shelf beams (3 shelves). It measures OD 98"W X 30"D X 90"H, had to take 30" off the orig height so it would stand up in the shop.
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On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 3:13:08 PM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:

A Festool wood storage rack! Who knew?

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Wrong tint :D
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDU2WDEwODI=/z/s2AAAOSw091VBaIE /$_1.JPG
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On 09/26/2016 2:13 PM, Spalted Walt wrote: ...

That's a definite "u suk!" find, there...I've been looking for ages and everybody's awful proud of 'em...
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On 9/26/2016 3:32 PM, dpb wrote:

He does suck!
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On 09/26/2016 4:32 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

...
In the old barn there are 6" columns 8ft on center with one side of the driveway where old milking stalls stood having a double row only about 6ft apart. I had some old 1" shaft material so I drilled thru the columns and inserted shaft sections extending about 2ft. That leaves enough room to walk along. I then filled in w/ single 2X6 tied to the mow floor joists overhead and added the intermediate sag support...
But, not everybody has a WWI-era 40x70 (roughly) barn to repurpose, either... :) The real kicker for it as the shop is the bottom floor height is only 7ft; there's 30ft headroom to the center beam in the mow but that would mean arranging for getting everything up there which I'd love to do but haven't tackled...
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On 9/26/2016 5:32 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Home made is best. You will get what you need, hold more, and it will cost less.
I used 2x4 uprights, w/ 2x8s. The 2x8s are cut at an angle for supports. You could also do 2x4 supports with ply doubler or tripplers.
You then get to layout your own system. I ran the 2x4 uprights from floor to floor joist above. They are tied in with carriage bolts to the joists, and held away from the wall a few inches, and a little foot on the bottom holds the spacing from the wall. This allows air, or small panels to go behind it.
Mine are 16" on center.
--
Jeff

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On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 4:32:54 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com wrote:

I started off storing horizontally but eventually went to vertical storage, simply because it gave me better access to the wood and more storage per square foot.
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On 9/27/16 4:43 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

gave me better access to the wood and more storage per square foot.

I wish I could go vertical (9.5 foot ceilings), but 90% of my boards are 10', 12' and 16'. I made a rack system outside, behind the shop, long enough to hold the 16's. Two tiers, 4' deep with 3"x1/4" "C" channel cross supports on 4' centers. The outside is covered with corrugated roofing takeoffs from reroofing the shop. Being on the south side, it gets quite warm (solar kiln?), but holds an a$$ load of wood (several 1000 bf). The cross supports are bolted to 2"x2" vertical steel supports on each end, sunk into concrete piers.
Problems are that the board I want is always on the bottom and the squirrels are impossible. The 4' spacing has never been a problem with warping, etc. The vertical supports mean I only have access from the end so I label each board with species and length. Lots of improvements could be made, but at least it is no longer stacked up on the shop floor 8^).
Next would be a shed, probably 12' high, where the 'shorter' stuff could be vertical (the only way to do it right!)
-BR
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On 10/1/2016 8:59 AM, Brewster wrote:

How often do you need for a board that to be over 8' or 9' long? You can cut them down to that length now. ;~)

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On 10/01/2016 9:31 AM, Leon wrote: ...

...
And grain pattern-matching for a specific project out of them has just gone down the drain... :( After that, you're limited to what those lengths allow which may or may not, actually make the best presentation/use of the material.
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On 10/1/2016 10:26 AM, dpb wrote:

Well there is that. ;~) Unless you cut out the grain patterns now.
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On 10/01/2016 11:13 AM, Leon wrote:

And you propose to know where the center of the drawer is going to be in that sideboard commission you've yet to receive exactly how, now???
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On 10/1/2016 11:51 AM, dpb wrote:

Great points and I used to save pieces for that very fact. But the majority of the work I do depends more on the design vs. particular grain in the wood. I had the dilemma that the OP is talking about. I finally made the decision to not collect the odd pieces for what might or might not happen in the future. FWIW I still have 90% of those special boards because no project has been worthy. LOL Anyway I no longer look for pieces to keep for a possible future project and simply buy as needed these days and if I need a nice piece I cull through my suppliers pile.
On a side note, the pantry cabinet I built for our home about 5 years ago has 22 small drawers and are mated in pairs. The grain is matched for the pairs. At eye level a pair of those drawers have grain that looks like the Liberty bell. No one notices that.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6485170653/in/dateposted-public/
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On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 6:22:54 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Well, you should have strived for the Lone Star look....
Or the Long Horn look. Turn the drawers upside down and you'll see the Long Horn's head.
Sonny
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OK so I finally remembered to lock the rotation on my iPad and was able to take a look upside down. ::-)
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On 10/1/2016 7:22 PM, Leon wrote:

Took me a couple of seconds to find it, but that is because the crack in the center seems a bit out of scale.
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ROTFL. Damn, and probably a little too straight!
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On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 7:22:54 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

I see a cloud in that Liberty Bell.
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On 10/1/16 8:31 AM, Leon wrote:

yabbut, If I cut it up, the next week I'll need it 1" longer (BTDT) 8^)
-BR
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