Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who has worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result is a buggered up head that won't take much torque.
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12 years ago
wood screws
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12 years ago
How many care if a drywall screw has a buggered head.
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12 years ago
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 23:24:07 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"
Many people if it's not inserted properly. A properly constructed drywall screw cams out very easily when inserted by a professional installer. Speed of installation and proper screw depth are an important thing to people who earn their living by installing drywall.
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12 years ago
True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef?
Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-)
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Mike gets bored easily and like to troll here under this name. Elsewhere he uses other names.
Don't feed it.
mike
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12 years ago
Well the design fails as I seldom strip out a head, never on a drywall screw, and have driven screws deep into wood, and have broken high quality SS deck screws without ramping out of the slot. They may not be as good as a Robertson, or a number of other designs, but certainly good enough.
Not quite yet, at least not in the US. When standard Swiss Army knife comes with a Robertson driver instead of a Phillips, I'll believe the Robertson is gaining ground:-)
same reason the Swiss Army Knife comes with a Phillips rather than say a TP3 or even a Robertson...
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12 years ago
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 23:24:07 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"
Many people if it's not inserted properly. A properly constructed drywall screw cams out very easily when inserted by a professional installer. Speed of installation and proper screw depth are an important thing to people who earn their living by installing drywall.
------------------------- Drywall screws do not use a Philips head but rather a Frearson that looks the same to the untrained eye.
mike
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12 years ago
Case hardened drywall screws don't end up with a buggered up heads.
With minimum effort, a quality Phillips head screw works just fine for
99% of wood shop needs. The advantages of other types of heads is mitigated by the fact Swiss army knives come with Phillips head drivers, and Aunt Bessy has a Phillips head screwdriver in her kitchen junk drawer, and she has no clue what a hexalobular socket head, or a Robertson is, let alone have a means to attack it. Since Phillips works good enough with few problems, it is the screw of choice... In my shop.- Vote on answer
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12 years ago
The same number of people that use them. That's probably why they make'm so the heads don't "bugger".
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12 years ago
Their heads seldom become none useful, you just hear the click when the screw shank breaks.
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12 years ago
Looks the same to my "trained eye" as well. To be sure, I just went and compared one of my drywall screw heads to a Mcfeely's Phillips head wood screw, and they looked identical to me. Then a DAGS and found a million sellers identifying drywall screws as "Phillips" head. I admit my eyes ain't what they once were, but right now, I'm a bit skeptical.
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12 years ago
Honest, I don't recall ever breaking a shank on a drywall screw. I have (rarely) broken shanks on regular screws, never (that I remember) on a drywall screw. No reason to lie, just my personal experience. I abuse the hell out of them too, because I know the head won't strip. I'm more careful with plain screws where I know I can strip out the head w/o much effort.
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12 years ago
Their heads seldom become none useful, you just hear the click when the screw shank breaks.
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I think it is a difference of what material you are working with.
If all you are fastening is softwood, you may get away using drywall screws.
Torque down a drywall screw on a couple pieces of hardwood, and you will hear the snap of the shank breaking before the head gets driven flush, every time. ;-)
-- Jim in NC
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12 years ago
Torque any screw into hard wood, trying to drive the head flush, and you are looking for trouble. Hard wood needs a pilot hole and a countersink. Even in soft wood, a countersink is best or you can crush the wood before you get the head flush.
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12 years ago
I can't tell the difference, either. The shelves and boxes usually say "Philips" but I have noticed they stay on the driver bit much better than a plated woodscrew labeled Philips. Perhaps the lack of patent allows too many people to use the name indiscriminately and change the spec to work better than an original Philips design. Even Phi;is has changed their design to avoid further embarassment....LOL
As far as your Swish Army knife, mine didn't come with a Philips, but then they may be geographical area dependent. Except for drywall screws, I typically throw out any cross configuration heads on screws supplied with assemble it yourself items. I like to be able to rely on getting a screw out for repairs a few years late after the oak rust sets in and I tighten things a little tighter than a pocket knife to avoid furniture collapsing under people.
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"Jack Stein" wrote in message news:iuv5s3$ts4$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me... Looks the same to my "trained eye" as well. To be sure, I just went and compared one of my drywall screw heads to a Mcfeely's Phillips head wood screw, and they looked identical to me. Then a DAGS and found a million sellers identifying drywall screws as "Phillips" head. I admit my eyes ain't what they once were, but right now, I'm a bit skeptical.
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12 years ago
Please show me one shred of evidence that I have ever posted anything on a newsgroup or anywhere else on the internet using a different name. I beg you to try. Please. You won't find any. Not because it's been sufficiently hidden, but because it doesn't exist.
Unlike you, everything I post has a sig file with my website. In about 5 seconds you or anyone else can get contact info for me. How about you? Anyone here can email me if they don't like something I wrote. How about you? They can call me to tell me I'm an @$$ or I'm full of $h!t. I don't write anything in here I wouldn't say to someone's face. How about you?
To me, this is a bunch of buddies, sitting on a porch, having a beer, giving each other some crap and laughing about it, and occasionally some good info changes hands. :-)
I'll be waiting for any proof from you about your accusations. Until then, kindly STFU.
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12 years ago
Don't doubt your experience at all. I have broken plenty.
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12 years ago
Actually I can use a regular #8 flat head square drive screw with out a pilot hole in 3/4" red oak. Using an impact driver, when the head begins to bury inside the wood the wood will split. That was just to test the strength of the impact driver.
And that is why I switched to square drive screws 20+ years ago.
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12 years ago
Torque any screw into hard wood, trying to drive the head flush, and you are looking for trouble. Hard wood needs a pilot hole and a countersink. Even in soft wood, a countersink is best or you can crush the wood before you get the head flush.
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While I agree that the drywalls screws are very hard , thin (#6), and brittle and would snap easily that is hardly a fair comparison. The trumpet style head has a very bad taper, by design, for pulling it into a wood material at all. I am sure they are designed to not penetrate drywall surfaces the way a one angle sloped flat head is tapered, will penetrate a wood material.
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12 years ago
He couldn't possibly have been talking about you Mike, or the other Mike for that matter, both of you are close to newsgroup perfection. And you're a drummer to boot:-)
It shows buddy, it shows.
I wouldn't sit on my hands waiting for either to happen.
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12 years ago
OK guys, I just exited my shop after testing this out.
Using a 2" coarse thread #8 head dry wall screw, a Mcfeely's Robertson
2" #8 and a Home Depot 2" #8 outdoor screw and a scrap piece of 1 1/2 white oak (harder than red oak). I drove all of them right down past the countersink level with my impact driver. I did this 5 times with the drywall screw to see if a hot screw would snap as Mike suggested, and it was hot as hell, but didn't snap.No lubrication used, no pilot holes, no broken heads, no broken shanks and no cam out with *any* of them. I even drove a couple of them all the way through until the white oak split. So much for Morgans statement that the drywall screw will snap every time. Wrongo!
The Drywall screw actually was the easiest to get started I think because it has the sharpest point, and to my surprise, the McFeely Robertson was the hardest to get started and, here's the surprise, was harder to keep the drill bit in when starting the screw. That may have simply been because the point wasn't sharp as the drywall screw.
I don't think I ever tried driving a screw into a 1 1/2" piece of white, or red oak w/o drilling a pilot hole before. The impact driver did it with ease, and all the screws handled it just fine. The countersink did exactly what I said as well, not a clean sink, but mostly with some broken fibers. One of the holes countersunk clean, no clue why.
I didn't try this with a regular drill, might do that next. Impact drivers I think are easier on the screws, the wood and the guy doing the driving. They are awesome. They don't un-screw my deck screws though, snap the heads off those suckers instantly.