I don't know if I'll actually build this design. In fact, even if I work
up the gumption to try it - there would be many challenges for someone
at my level - I'm sure the design will undergo many changes before it's
For right now I'm curious about the center section that lifts out. If
it's made of solid wood (lets say oak), how much play would I need to
allow around the perimeter? It would probably be 6" to 8" wide. Would a
sixteenth be adequate?
Next, is this simply a stupid idea? Specifically, is the center piece
likely to warp over time and not sit flat? I can't see using ply for
this, as I like the decorative square holes, which would also be used to
remove the cover.
As always, try to be gentle. :)
Cool and I would not be too concerned with the lift out section, you are
using a dark wood to hide the loose fit shadow that would be created.
The wider that trim around the lid the less noticeable the gaps will be.
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 2:35:48 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
What might the 3 holes, along the center line, be for? Option: discard th
ose 3 holes for... see below.
Another option? Why not make the center section a 4 piece unit, triangles
converging at the center point, i.e., following the design of the perimeter
? If this project is going to be an advancement of skills learned, why be
so plain with the center section?
Another option? Since the center section is lined with a contrast trim, us
e a ply substrate and practice your veneer application.
If either option fails, you haven't lost much lumber, only time and/or lear
ning from errors/mistakes.
You're in luck. Thursdays are the gentle days.
This is a good project proposal for making anyone think of different option
s.... but be careful with the Project Management: https://www.flickr.com/p
You can find wood movement calculators on the web to give
you answers for pretty much any size and wood you want.
Off the top of my head, tho, I think oak shrinks about 1/8
per foot of width for a normal indoor humidity range. So
a 1/16 on either side should be ample for a 6" panel.
Yes, For TV remotes, coasters, a few pens for the crossword puzzle etc.
It won't be the most practical way to accomplish that, and I haven't
definitely decided to do it, but I like that it would be a little odd.
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Perhaps quarter sawn would be useful here... generally more stable. If done
carefully it could be sawn apart to make the holes and then glued back
together such that the glue lines disappear. This would require carefully
lining the growth rings up parallel with the long edges and then jointing
the edges to get the growth rings to line up like the saw cut was never
made. Not too difficult to pull off... just requires some thought and care.
Keep in mind what looks good on paper does not always work well in daily
Things pile up on tables and you will have to clear the table to lift
the lid. You might want to consider a fancy top that dies not open and
add a drawer for the remotes.
On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 10:09:20 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
I was going to say the same thing in a slightly different manner: Form does
not follow function in this instance. In addition, things *will* fall thro
ugh the holes, dust and crap will end up on top of that remote, etc. The pi
cture shows pens inside, but it would be tough to use the top as a writing
Pretty, but not necessarily practical. Of course, it really all depends on
it's intended purpose.
Yup, I've already thought of some of that stuff.
I'm not worried about things falling into the holes. They would be 1"
square. I have no pets or small children. Even a drinking glass would
span that hole without tilting, especially sitting on one of the
coasters that people will use under penalty of hanging by their thumbs
in the yard.
And these would be end tables that would sit a little lower than
the arms of the couch. They would not be for writing.
But yes, stuff would pile up on top. That much I'm certain of. Stuff
piles up on top of everything in my um, *compact* house. But
occasionally when people come over and we pretend that the house is
always as neat as it is on such evenings, people could ooh and aah at
the clever, pretty design. :)
Thanks for the advice. This is merely the tenth or so iteration of what
will doubtless become twenty or thirty before anything is built. Who
knows what shape it might take.
On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 11:41:24 AM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote:
Just keep in mind that what looks "neat" to you after a cleaning blitz is all relative. :-)
If you reduce the clutter by 90%, it looks great to you. However, your unknowing guests see the remaining 10% as 100%. No, showing them "before and after" pictures is not a good idea. ;-)
Yeah, let's not fault the guy for trying to be creative.
Sometimes you have to work thru the "didn't quite work
out like I intended" a few times to get a design that
both looks good and works good, and you have to try the
ideas that don't immediately look practical before you
see how to improve them.
For instance, if stuff falling thru the holes becomes
an issue, you might just close them off on the bottom
(add a thin layer of wood or something) - you'd keep
the decorative aspect, and they'd still work as a way
to grasp the lid.
Or perhaps instead of a closed box under the table top
it's an open shelf, which would make it easier to clean
(at the risk of stuff falling off, of course).
I think the aesthetics of the holes in the center matching
the 4 square tenons of the legs, and the square elements
in the lower stretchers, has a lot to be said for it.
Good thought, no need to clear off the top to get at it. Especially if it
were a sliding shelf...not talkng about drawer slides, just a couple of
pieces on the inside along two sides to contain the shelf.
Every woodworker interested in determining wood movement for planning
and design purposes needs to keep a copy of the following in the shop:
As you will read, not only is the species of importance when selecting
woods based on their reaction to moisture/seasonal changes, but also the
cut off the log (quarter sawn, flat sawn, etc).
As a general rule, and for most species, if you want to reduce expansion
and contraction across your board's face, try to select quarter or rift
sawn stock for those areas/components which may be subject to
dimensional instability due to moisture/seasonal changes.
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