A book recommended teak or lignum vitae blocks.
Anyone tried them? How do they compare to cool blocks?
I have scraps of both, but before I got to the trouble of cutting them and
getting them into the bandsaw (speaking of which, any tips on changing the
lower blocks on a 14" Delta would be appreciated...) I thought I would find
out what others have tried.
If you have it to hand, then either should work. They're both inherently
oily. Maple is another favourite, but needs soaking first.
IMHE, the advantage of Cool Blocks is their easy setup. They lubrcate
well, so you can run them on a tighter spacing from the blade. Wood
blocks can perform just as well, but you're forever having to re-adjust
Depends on what you're cutting. If you're using narrow blades in narrow
spots, throwaway guides of wood or phenolic are a good solution. You have
to be very careful and resurface them if you're chewing them, else they
become ineffective, with the blade suffering the consequences. I've used
both kinds, no particular advantage to either that I can see.
What's on my saw now, because it's cutting green wood for turning, and when
resawing in straight lines, are ceramics. Slicker than snot, so they can
touch the blade if the weld is smoothed properly without heat, don't wear
away noticeably after two years, but don't recommend on blades narrower than
I am sure you're speaking of the grub screw on the lower left guide, which
is almost impossible to reach, and whose recess is always packed with dust.
I ground the short end of an "L" Allen wrench to make it just about a
quarter inch shorter, then stuffed the long end into a wooden handle to make
holding it easier. Seems to help the two problems I had.
But if you think _that_ one's tough to get to, wait until the one on the
lower guide adjustment comes loose!
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