I got the Freud I believe - has the new metric and super fine 1/32 specs.
Pain to shim but does a beautiful cut.
Saved my bucket when using OPEC (oil cartel) plywood from Chile I got from
a Big Box store....
Sorry, Puck, but I'm coming out on Lew's side as well. I have neither,
but I do have an assortment of tools that require me to fiddle and fart
and fuck around til they work - sorta. These cheapie tools have
butchered more projects than I care to list.
In some ways that sounds like an excuse. "Honey I can't make good stuff
out of wood until I have XYZ from Lee Valley or (insert any other high
end stuff here)." And there is an element of truth to the fact that a
lousy craftsman still won't know how to use a decent tool. However, a
medium-skilled DIYer like me has enough internal boogahs haunting the
shop without having to rely on quirky tools.
What I do have is a router in a half way decent table that allows me to
do most of the things a dado would do for me, albeit with less flexibility.
A dado is certainly on my list of 'must buy soon' items, but I will save
my pennies til I can get a stacked set because of all the issues I've
heard with wobblers.
That may or may not help the problem that you're having now. Or maybe it
Yep! The tree huggers would be at the gates with torches, if they
Perzactly! Besides, I'm to the point in life where I can afford
better toys. Can't justify Festool, but don't see what the hubbub is,
either (looked at them again at WoodCraft this morning).
I've used a table for several years. I added a lift a couple of years
ago and it's been sweet (bought the Wixey gauge during the above trip
to WoodCraft ;).
Cheap dado sets aren't too pricey. Yes, they're still cheap, but
better than a wobbler, IMO. The local Lowes has stacked sets as low
as $50, with a Freud set for $100. I bought the Freud set and will
backfill with a better set later (SWMBO always needs ideas for gifts).
Yes, I also have a wobbler I used with my Crapsman RAS. It hasn't
been used in at least 20 years.
It amazes me that some are willing to fiddle-fuck with a cheap ass,
poor excuse for a dado, but will spend large amounts for another tool
such as a drill, a miter gauge, etc.
Guess it is a matter of priorities.
A good stacked dado is a large investment in a speciality tool, and
maybe can't be justified by some; however, as Max as suggested, there
is an alternate solution which is within reach of most, namely a
router /W/ a straight bit, a slab of 3/4 MDF, and a couple of saw
I just have a problem with a wobble dado, IMHO, it is strictly a POS.
Sure, I could always cut the wood shorter and just use butt joints. I'm
an expert at those. :-) A dadoed joint would be much cooler (and
Sounds like a good place to start. I've been measuring the three teeth
that are furthest out (it appears two of them move an equal amount on one
blade.) I get it set and then start to tighten it down... and it expands
a good 1/8-1/4 inch.
Isn't the depth set with the table saw blade height adjustment? For what
I'm doing, depth of cut isn't as critical as width of cut. (Shelves and
attempting box joints.)
Thanks for the suggestions.
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
On 20 Jun 2009 05:27:53 GMT, Puckdropper
I have a double wobble and it depends on the orientation on how wide
the dado will be. It takes some fussing to get it right, but not
enough fuss to purchase a new stacked dado set. With ANY dado set,
you still need to run a test scrap piece.
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