Wished I used square pegs

Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table. For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square. If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way to achieve my goal! Or not.
;>)
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personal opinion, what makes you happy is the correct thing to do. I would probably just leave them round.
BRuce
Scott wrote:

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Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
John
Scott wrote:

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I agree. Can you tell what is fake with this joint?
http://home.mchsi.com/%7Elarrylhote/mirrorpage/mirror5big.JPG
Larry
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Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
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Lawrence L'Hote wrote:

My guess the tennon? The grain looks different. -Bruce
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Not a through tenon. You faked the tenon - probably pinned both sides with the pegs.
Jon E
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The nail holes?
;>)
Thanks for the opinions; I'll stare at it a few days, while I try to get a stain to match the other furniture . . .
Cheers,
Scott
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No.
I could only guess.
John
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:

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"Scott" wrote in message

You are correct, square ended pegs are traditional, but I wouldn't obsess over it.
You are also correct in that the pegs are actually square to begin with, whittled or sanded round, leaving the last 1/4" or so square, and driving into a round hole, the end of which has been squared with a square ended punch of the correct size.
The same technique, but just drilling over the existing peg to a depth of 1/4" in or so, ought to allow you to glue in a square "peg head".
... and, if you really want to obsess, make the "peg head" so that it sticks out above the surface about 1/4" and bevel it . ;>)
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Ooh . . . noooo . . . just when I thought I'd get some sleep tonight . . .
;>)
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I have two ealy walnut chairs, circa 1730 all tennons have square pegs and to the best of my knowledge no glue. The heads of the pegs are proud of the surface, as the wood shrinks the pegs get squeezed . that is one way of authenicating that the pegs are real.When refinishing such pieces the last thing you need to do is to sand them flat to the surface .
Square pegs were used so that the corners would bite into the hole and stay put through the years. The hole was initially drilled without the tennon inserted. Then the tennon was then fitted and the drill inserted so that it would just mark the tennon .The tennon was removed and the hole drilled perhaps 1/32" inboard of the mark so when the peg was inserted the slight hole missalignment drew the tennon in, making the joint tight....mjh
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Interesting . . . thanks for the info.
Scott
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If the current piece is well made leave it alone. Experiment on your next project. (Or, If it ain't broke don't fix it 'cause it will be then.)
RB
Scott wrote:

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Yeah, good advise. Below is a pic of the dowels in the present unstained condition:
http://home.att.net/~slurban3/Photos/Coffee-table1-480.jpg
I was thinking that square pegs would look better because the piece itself is entirely rectangular in design. I'll consider square pegs, and maybe through-tenons on the next project: nightstands for the bedroom.
Cheers,
Scott
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very nice, I don't see a problem with the round ones. I would leave em, put the finish on and start my next project.
BRuce
Scott wrote:

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BRuce

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