Been a while since I've been around - got lots to keep me occupied. Got a question about electricity. Want to run some wires in my shop and was wondering... In 110volt you have a live wire and nuetral wire, this is also single phase. In 220volt is there 2 live wires of 110volt each that act as the others nuetral. Or does is it have two 110volt phases running in one wire with a nuetral wire. And are both phases in phase or out of phases.
220VAC is 2 legs of 110VAC out of phase with each other. Therefore, the
220VAC is across those legs. Sometimes there is also a neutral wire included which allows the outlet to also offer 110VAC. This configuration is typical for a cloths dryer where the timer runs on 110VAC and the heaters on 220VAC.
For wiring 220VAC in your shop, I recommend pulling cable with 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground. The motors in your machines don't need the neutral, but it's handy to have there if you need it in the future.
Technically (not that it matters in practice), the hot wires are *in phase* but with opposite polarity voltages. After all, you only have one secondary winding on that transformer; the "neutral" is really a center tap or halfway-voltage.
There is such a thing as two-phase power, where the hots are 90 degrees out of phase (three or four wire systems) but they're obsolete these days.
But those details don't matter for our purposes, I'm just being pedantic.
The two mains in the breaker box aren't wired that way. They zig-zag back and forth so that vertically adjacent breakers are always on separate mains.
24v circuits are always wired with a single ganged breaker that uses two vertically adjacent slots; it is wrong to wire one 240v outlet to two separate breakers.
It is wrong to tie both ground and neutral to the same tie block on the breaker panel, even when the two blocks are tied together in the panel.
The three-hole 240v outlet should have the third hole tied to ground, not neutral. Only four-hole 240v outlets use neutral.
The circuit is grounded at two places (the transformer and the neutral tie block). Only one ground tie-in is permitted per building. The circuit should be grounded at a *ground* tie block, with neutral tied to ground at one point (usually the main breaker box).
The transformer is labelled "120V RMS" on the primary side, which is wrong (the primary is usually 7200v or more), and the US standard is 240V not 120V. (The US, unlike Europe, provides a center tap for lower voltage devices, but the main voltage is the same).
Worse than nitpicking, actually. What makes you think that, for instance, the mere proximity of the "120V rms" to the primary means it references the primary? It's a case of space, and has no pointer.
It's not meant to instruct you how to wire, they refer you to the NEC for that.
Now go have a nice warm milk to counteract that nervous caffeine energy.
He did say pedantic, and although I can understand that the drawing takes liberties for the sake of readability (like not having bus slots zig-zag) putting a neutral connection on that 240V outlet is just wrong.
Thats what I did. 10-3, 30A for my 220 TS and 12-3, 20A for my 220 DC. I then added a few 110 convienience outlets to the DC circuit. I only worry a bit about tripping my breaker if I move my compressor from its dedicated
110v 20A circuit, for convienience sake ;) , to one of the outlets on my DC circuit. If the compressor kicks in while DC is on..... has happened once but never tripped the breaker yet! I'm sure if both were starting at same time that sucker would blow pretty quick.
Er, a degree in electrical and computer engineering? I mean, *I* know it refers to the secondary (which is 240v) but standards for such drawings make it seem to refer to the primary.
I was hoping to make sure everyone else understood that. You never know when someone's going to trust a picture and end up getting hurt.
Breakers tend to be heat-based, so a short pulse of over-current is usually acceptable. The purpose of breakers is to protect the wiring up to the outlet, not to protect the device plugged into it, so they try to simulate how much heat the wiring is generating and shut off the current before the wire's insulation breaks down.
The only time I've seen a breaker blow "pretty quick" was when it was completely shorted.
Breakers are designed with various trip delay curves to suit the intended application. There's a good overview at
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Looking at the curve in Fig 1 of that article, that particular breaker described looks like it trips in about 20 seconds for a 2x overload, about 4 seconds for a 5x overload, and above a 10x overload, the trip time is down in the mili-second range.
"DJ Delorie" wrote: Technically (not that it matters in practice), the hot wires are *in phase* but with opposite polarity voltages. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If there is ANY difference between two voltages of opposite polarity, and two voltages 180 degrees out of phase, I can't find it with an oscilloscope or in my mind. I don't think there is any difference, but I may also be a pedant.
You're correct there is no difference in observable characteristics, just a difference in how the two voltages are generated in practice. (That is, the two legs of 240V are generated from a single phase supply.)
It's relatively easy to generate two signals that are 180 degrees out of phase, each of which can be measured relative to a common ground, but show no voltage difference relative to each other. Think of two relays (or light switches) which take turns turning a circuit on. You can measure the output of either relays' contacts to ground, and see the signal, but if you just connect from one relay to the other, you get nothing.
In the case of a multi-tap transformer, the fact that it's a multi-tap transformer is enough to make it a voltage issue rather than a phase issue. Consider a transformer with ten taps. Are there ten phases? Of course not, but there are ten (er, plus or minus a fence post) voltages, which you can use in any [linear] combination, much like putting batteries in series.
Now, if you had two identical transformers, and wired one backwards,
*then* you'd have a phase issue (still, though, no practical difference). But like I said earlier, there's no practical difference when we're talking about house current.
My primary motivation, other than to have some fun on a Friday, is to keep people from confusing single-phase house current with the original two-phase (4 wire, 90 degrees) AC invented by Tesla. This
2-phase was replaced with our current 3-phase (3 wire, 120 degrees) power.
To make it more amusing, we had a tree fall take out the "ground" wire coming to our house, leaving only the Earth ground as a return. We have 7200v service (transformer at the house), so this left us with a single wire coming up the driveway. Power inside the house seemed normal to me, although we weren't using very much of it at the time.
If anyone knows how to get more than one phase out of a single wire (plus return), there's a Nobel prize waiting for you.
Actually, there are two secondary coils on the transformer, and they're in series in this application. But there are other times when they are in parallel. You can have a look at my website, and see some transformer connections, including phase angles, that I had up for a discussion on another NG. They are the most common three phase connections used today.
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There is also a 5 wire. On my web page you can see the Scott connections that require special transformers to serve these obsolete loads from modern three phase power. These are very rare today.
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