Window sash replacement instructions

I need to replace a fixed double insulated picture window because the wood frame has rotted. The glass is brand new (the glass company did not notice the rotting frame - don't ask - I would never use this company again). It is probably cheaper and easier to replace the entire unit rather than removing the frame and finding a replacement frame only. I would greatly appreciate instructions on how to remove and reinstall the sash. From what I understand, you simply score the edges, remove the moulding, and pop the window out. Is it really that "easy"? How do I get the nails out of the moulding to remove the moulding? Do I add a sealant to the edges when I install the new sash to keep it well sealed? Please reply to snipped-for-privacy@HOTMAIL.com with instructions. Thanks!
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Have you tried alt.home.repair ?
with instructions. Thanks!
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (R.K.) wrote:

Can't answer your other questions on window removal, but I've removed a lot of (c. 1920)molding that was to be reused. Don't attempt to pry the molding away from the wall or other trim - you'll ding and gouge it as well as likely split a fair amount of it.
The better way is to take a nail set of the appropriate diameter and drive the existing nails further into and through the moulding. Yes, it can make the nail hole larger, but that's a far sight easier to fix than repairing, replacing and matching molding that's split.
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On 17 Oct 2003 10:28:22 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (R.K.) wrote:

Sorry, not going to reply via email. A stationary sash in a wood framed window can be held in place by moulding only, or by L shaped screwed on clips under the moulding, or in some cases it may be screwed from the outside of the frame into the sash. A decent quality wood window will use the clips under the moulding, because a stationary sash picture unit is nothing more than a operating sash window without the hardware needed to make it operate. It should have the same weather-stripping between the frame and sash as an operable unit so additional sealant shouldn't be necessary. As another person stated, driving the moulding nails through is a much better alternative to prying the moulding off.
If the frame is not too badly rotted, you can remove the sash and repair the frame using a Minwax product made just for this purpose. http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/wood-filler.cfm
Jeff ____________________________________________ You won't notice the splinters in the ladder of success, unless you are sliding down.
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