There is no one single best way to make tenons. You use the method which works best for the project at hand. In addition to nibbling with the saw blade or using a tenoning jig, you can cut the tenons with a dado head. Or you can cut the tenons with a tenon cutter on your router table. Or you can cut them with a handsaw. Those are just the ways that come off the top of my head.
I don't think that any particular way has a monopoly on safety Jim
When I have a number of tenons to cut, as in a run of doors, I use the method of cutting the shoulders as you describe.
I'll lay up a nice wide piece and cut maybe six sticks worth with their shoulder cuts, flip them over and cut the other side.
Where we fall out is on the nibbling. The nibbling creates a chattered cut - not fit for gluing.
A decent glue up demands an interface between the parts that cannot be achieved by your teacher's method - except for this:
It is just possible, although it is an extraordinary effort, to nibble away, such as you describe, and then go back over the nibbled area with a lateral motion, back and forth across the saw blade. This is more of a field man's trick than a shop man's common practice.
A tenon jig is no big thing to cobble, if you can't afford the metal version.
It's worth your time to do.
Be advised - your jig will be for naught if your blade is not truly perpendicular to your table. If it is not - you will cut a wedge - not a tenon.
Well guys, you've given me a lot to think about. I've decided to buy the CELASCHI [320C] - 8 HEAD DOUBLE END TENONER for my son. It's only $6,000 or $7000 more than a Delta tenoning jig and it looks like it will last! It can probably also help out if we're attacked by aliens.
The Woodcraft is almost identical to the 183 model Delta. Neither is 20 pounds, I don't think. I have the Delta, but if I was buying tomorrow, I'd buy the Woodcraft and invest the difference is Bob Vila videos.
On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 20:11:04 -0500, Tom Watson scribbled:
Who is again foolishly selling tools. You ain't in bizness no more, Tom. Luckily, the prices you are posting will allow you to buy the same tools again and mebbe make a little profit in the bargains.
Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
Heavy is your friend. Light weight means more vibration, less stability.
Cast iron is also your friend. Aluminum means flexing. Cast iron means stiffness.
Aluminum also means aluminum oxide rubbing off on the wood, and leaving gray marks. Used to have a Craftsman TS with aluminum top. Glad I don't any more.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
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