Even though I've seen lots of old pictures of woodworkers wearing ties, I
can't see how wearing one is going to protect you from a kickback. (The
pictures of the guys operating lathes are the worst ones!)
- Owen -
Why stop there?
I settle for nothing less than full, NHL regulation goalie gear! Who
needs a GRRRRRipper when you've got a blocker?
I'm not the only one, you'll see goalie gear hanging in the background
of Peter Gedry's finishing articles, as well.
All that gear lets you just shake it off. <G>
FWIW, I was a defenseman when I played, not a goalie. More than once, I
turned around from tying up an opposing player (puckdropper [might] call
it "interference", but a man's gotta' do to do what he's gotta' do...
<G>), and had about 10-15 milliseconds to get out of the way. I can't
get anywhere in that amount of time. So... I got hit so hard one
night, it stuck in my mind enough where years later I'd duck lightweight
plastic balls used in indoor roller hockey. <G>
Then again, I've seen some on-ice officials take it bad enough that they
probably would have traded it for a kickback! =8^0
I've done that too on defense. I found you can't just block the better
players, you gotta shove them out of the way.
For both sawing and goaltending, if you have a red light (ambulance) come
on it's a bad thing.
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
: So basically I knew nothing about the table saw and for my first thing
: I crosscut 8 ft 2x4s. After putting them through with the miter guide
: I could feel the wood binding and my testicles immediately called for
: me to turn off the saw. After doing some research I learned a lot
: about crosscut sleds and why you shouldn't cut long things the narrow
What was binding? You weren't usuing the fence were you? THAT
can cause binding and kickback. But if you remove the fence, I
don't see how you'd get binding and kickback on a crosscut of somthing 3.5"
: So then I am cutting some poplar 1X8 and I am standing off to the left
: side and on the side of the fence I hear the saw start to have some
: trouble on the cut and all of a sudden I see the cut off piece shoot
: across the garage and hit a metal sheet propped up against the side.
: It was like a missle. I think it hit the sheet metal at about the
: tables height!
: So I do a little research and I find that my saw blade ws up too high.
What research was this? Forrest, which manufacturers one of the best
TS blade lines available, recommends running the blade at full height
to reduce kickback. Think about what direction the blade is pushing the
wood with the blade all the way up, vs. low down. Also, keeping the blade
all the way up places it closer to the splitter, which is a good thing.
The main advantage of keeping the blade low is you won't completely
cut your hand off if it runs into the blade. But since you should be using
a good guard, which keeps you from doing that, this isn't relevant.
You should also be using a splitter, which is the main prenetative device
for kickback. The wood can't twist into the blade if there's a good
splitter in use.
: However, I am still standing at the back left side of the saw with the
: fence on the right. What can I do so I can actually feel comfortable
: ripping a board and not having a 10 ft push stick?
Get a good guard and splitter.
Use board buddies or something similar.
- Andy Barss
No I wasn't using the fence,but in a more brilliant move, I didn't know
which side kicked back, so I had a hand on each side of the blade with
my crotch well to the side.
I think that happened is that it got almost to the end of the cut and
then it binded and kind of jumped back. Not really kickback but in my
mind it has bye bye teste written all over it.
So the point is that I probably over reacted but it was not the best
intro. I am going to make a crosscut sled this weekend.
Use the miter gauge for narrow stock, NOT the fence!
NEVER constrain both sides of a piece being cut!
Don't be afraid enough not to use the saw, but NEVER lose respect for it
and the bad things it can do IN A HURRY!
RTFM, and maybe another or two books about table saws.
Having read your dissertation, two things come to mind. First, crosscutting
8-foot 2X4s seems a rather odd introduction to the table saw and although
you never specifically stated it, I assume you know that when you are
crosscutting you should NEVER use the fence. BTW, that story about the guy
who busted his own balls is almost certainly not apocryphal. The landscape
is littered with candidates for the Vienna Boys Choir who got that way due
to their own misuse of their power tools.
Second, you should invest 60-70 bucks in a Grrr-ripper.
http://www.microjig.com/ It won't be of much use for crosscutting 2-bys
but it can make you feel a hell of a lot safer when performing ripping
operations on the table saw.
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
I don't understand this. Crosscutting long stock should never pose a
safety hazard. Supporting the workpiece can be a challenge, but what's
the safety issue?
What in the lord's name are you doing, using the rip fence as a guide
If you're ripping and getting that kind of kickback, make sure the
blade and the fence are both parallel to the miter gage slts (and each
other). If necessary, toe the end of the miter fence out, away from the
blade, by 1/32". Use the guard, which presumably has antikickback
pawls. You should never, ever get that kind of kickback this way.
With long boards, you may need to jam a wedge into the kerf to keep it
A high blade should never, ever cause that kind of kickback. In some
ways, a high blade is safer than a low one.
You're right to never stand in the line of fire.
Woodworking is spiritual. You can't do anything on a stolen saw.
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