I made this same mistake (in a different scenario) just the other day. You actually prove my point, since the max current from a single cell will be the max current of the battery.
The difference is voltage and power: the single AAAA will have 937.5 mWh, whereas the 9v battery will have 5625 mWh.
As I posted earlier, once upon a time I read this and found it to be the case. Things may have changed. I wish I had a 9V here, just so I could see.
-j
Interesting. I can swear I found 6 little flat cells stack one on top of each other (I was a kid; it might have been 30 years ago), but some more googling found:
I broke a 9V Duracell open last year, for grins. (Or maybe early this year). It contained a series of AAAA's.
Dave
there could be lots of ways to build a 9v battery. no reason all manufacturers have to do it the same way.
I've got an old radio that needs a B and two A batteries. IIRC the B is about 45v. Anyone know of a source? (It's a Stewart-Warner three dial battery set from the 30's).
scott
try BatteriesPlus, if there's a store near you, and I assume they're online. One just opened near me (Huntsville, AL) and they have some slightly oddball stuff on the shelf, and can order really oddball stuff. I wouldn't be surprised if they had an A in the store.
I've never seen a B.
-j
I think I'd build a power supply first.
| I've got an old radio that needs a B and two A batteries. IIRC | the B is about 45v. Anyone know of a source? (It's a | Stewart-Warner three dial battery set from the 30's).
I don't think A and B refer to battery types in this context - but rather to power _inputs_. IIRC the B supply was the filament supply and was somewhere around six and a half volts.
Any _really_ old-timers out there who can help with this one?
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
I'm not a *really* old timer, but did play with old radios while I was growing up. There really was a "B" battery, it's purpose was to power all but the filaments, the A battery powered the filaments. is a nice write-up
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
There is a diagram attached to the inside of the lid (it's a gorgeous walnut case) that shows the "A" Battery (yes, I suspect you are correct in your assessment, A and B are just reference letters in this context) sized and shaped much like an automobile battery, and it specifies it as 6v. That would be the filament supply, I suppose.
The diagram also shows two 45v batteries (both labelled 'B', oddly). They're short squat square batteries with binding posts on the top surface.
FWIW it is Stewart-Warner model 303.
scott
more about this. The three poles on the b battery prevented it from being put in wrong. You may have to use a battey eliminator instead of the battery at this point. There are some 22.5 volt batteries to be had, though I don't recall their designation.
Try this location:
Michael
Yeah, batteries suck. All my power tools need electrical receptacles. They don't run out of power, they are less expensive, and last a lot longer.
| Yeah, batteries suck. All my power tools need electrical | receptacles. They don't run out of power, they are less expensive, | and last a lot longer.
Most of mine as well - although I have a small assortment of pneumatic tools that I've found helpful.
My one rechargable tool is an 18v HF cordless drill that I use for pocket hole screws because I haven't found a (reasonably-priced) corded drill with an adjustable clutch.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
Got two of 'em, right (touch) here. Gonna put 'em on eBay one of these days. I can check voltage & let you know if they're any good. But, here's what they look like:
I've ripped one open before and found 6 aaaa's and ripped another open and found nothing but smelly stuff so it seems they are not all made the same.
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