Who originated the "Forrest WWll Blade" ?

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"Gusty" wrote in message

Life is indeed short and I, for one, am not picky at all ... particularly when faced with such a display of consistency. AAMOF, I wouldn't think of asking if that tailor's name was indeed, "Taylor", or remarking upon how appropriate it was, if that were the case, that he got into the tailoring game. I mean, you don't run across a tailor name Taylor everyday ... remarkable, more or less.
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Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! :)

I just pulled up www.switchboard.com. I see lot'sa Taylors.

Taylor's not an Italian name is it? Did it get "EllisIslanded"?
<b.s.e.g.>
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 09:42:09 -0500, Duane Bozarth

True. My uncle John, and his son (John Jr.) still hand-hammer blades, and as far as I can tell, they do a really fine job of it, Plenty of small shops around that use old techniques as a matter of necessity.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
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I'm going on record as a SATISFIED customer of Forrest.
Gusty wrote:
However, I have been reading

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I just bought my first TS and a FWWII blade. It started off flat to within .001. Then, I had a bad kickback episode (before I bought some board buddies) and the blade actually twisted visibly about an inch. Now its .002 off- what am I gonna do!? I cant work with such imprecision!
Cuts like butter. No complaints here. Though I did buy a 6" stiffener and have not noticed any difference other than that my depth of cut is only 1 5/8", and that after chiseling out some of my zero clearance insert to make more vertical room for the stiffener.
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"Bob in Oregon" wrote in message

No problem. Forrest will straighten the blade for you for a few extra bucks. Some dummy bent one of my WWII's tilting the blade while forgetting to remove a zero clearance insert ... came back from Forrest like new.
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I also have the stiffener, which I find unnecessary, but most of the time I leave it on (so I don't feel like a fool for spending $25 on it). I don't like the loss in depth either, for the rare time I need close to the full height of the blade. 99% of the time, I'm cutting 3/4" stock, so even on top of my sled, I don't need more than 2" of blade exposed.
When my WWII was brand new it was really, really close to having NO runout. In time, it got tweaked maybe 4-6 thousandths. A minute or two of finding the spot where it had runout and a judicious application of force with my hand got it back to near-perfect. Been fine ever since. The only time that blade comes off is when I need to dado, use the molding cutters, or need a clean edge on melamine. For the melamine I love the Freud double-sided melamine blade. oh, and the SD-508 also leaves a perfect edge on Melamine or ply. Such tools are such a pleasure to use.
Dave
Bob in Oregon wrote:

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