I was going to mention also that the HCT out feed roller stand will support a sheet of plywood after ripping it. Basically you don't need some one on the other end to catch it to prevent it from tipping. That works for 8' boards also.
A little pricey but it is probably the last one you will need to purchace and it does not sag over time. It is definately an upgrade to any saw.
I saw that, too! :-)
I saw that, too! :-)
I was intereste in the fence at one time then I looked at how much room is required for a 50" rip capcity and the room required to store it when it is off the saw. You might want to take a look at that. ;~)
With the long rails, it was enough to hurt - seven years ago. Happily, it only hurt for a short while. :)
I still have the original rails, a set of longer Delta rails, and the original fence - and still don't like 'em.
The Incra fence and rails just made the job a little easier than it would have been with the original rails.
I suppose my carefully-kept secret is out - that by building as much as possible for myself, I've had a bit left over for some of the nice things I /couldn't/ build. :)
I built one very simular to this one,
bottom of the L angle iron?
Best, Christopher
Mike
I can't remember where I saw it, maybe shopnotes, but there was an article about the outfeed table very similar to the one Greg built. IIRC it connected to the back of the saw with dowels that had corresponding holes in the saw. The legs folded like a card table and on the bottom of each leg there were sliding levelers that the user clamped with spring clamps. It seemed to be able to connect / disconnect very easy. Maybe an idea.
Or you could just do what I do is use my rolling work table - NYW. And every time I need to use move all the stuff that was on another flat surface in the shop that I had to move to use that.
Larry C
The leveling concept is something which I really need to incorporate, since I'm working in a garage with a sloped floor. My SCM portable stand has great legs on the roller extensions that quickly and easily adjust for leveling them.
That's what I've done in the past, with my much smaller table saw. It's one reason I want this to be quickly and easily folded down out of the way. I figure it has to be easier to put down, out of the way than it is to put stuff on it for working. :-) That's one of the reasons the roller concept intrigues me.
: : The leveling concept is something which I really need to incorporate, : since I'm working in a garage with a sloped floor. My SCM portable stand : has great legs on the roller extensions that quickly and easily adjust : for leveling them. :
I have the same problem with my garage floor. For my shop made stuff I have been using elevator bolts on the bottom of the legs and they work just fine. My local Ace HW carries them. If you're unfamiliar with them look here
Yes, I'm very familiar with them. Tangent.....
I needed some for a project. Went to Lowes to look in their special fasteners bins. Found a separate drawer labeled, "elevator bolts." Opened drawer.. nothing inside.
Asked the hardware "associate" if they had any. He said no, they don't carry them. I pointed to the drawer and said, "sure you do, look." He said, "yeah, I see the drawer, but they don't stock those any more." I said, "well, how about you take the label off the drawer." "Oh, we're not allowed." "Why" "They don't like having blank labels." "So, they'd rather have empty drawers that piss off the customers?"
Now, *every* timer I go to Lowes, I walk down that aisle, open that drawer and ask where the elevator bolts are. Sooner or later, they'll take the label off. :-)
I mounted an angle to the rear of the saw's table and screwed the top to it from underneath. Where the out feed table meets the extension table I used a strip of 2"x1/8" steel strap and overlapped the two tables and screwed then to the strap from underneath. The legs are some 1" square tubing with 3/4" threaded rod couplers welded on, with 3/4" threaded rod for adjustable feet screwed into the coupling. The legs are mounted to the table with two pieces of angle iron each with a bolt through them so the legs can hinge up, out of the way. A couple of supports hold the legs at 90 degrees when the table is in use. Similar to these,
Oh, OK. Did the angle iron have slots instead of round holes so you could adjust the hieght where the saw table meets the outfeed table? Or, did you use some type of shim?
Best, Christopher
I clamped the angle where I thought it should go, marked the holes and drilled them oversize for some adjustment. Greg
That's how Delta does it.
Thanks. That's much simpler than the concepts I was trying to flesh out.
Couple more quick questions.
Is there support for the outfeed section? I was expecting to see a support member from the bottom of the table saw (or from the floor) to the outfeed/extension hinge, but I don't see any support in the photo at the hinge (apologies if this was already discussed above).
There is no hole in the outfeed table for a blade guard. Do you use a blade guard that does not require space in the back of the table saw?
Best, Christopher
I forgot about the to supports that mount right before the hinge in the table, and run down at an angle to the base of the saw. As for the blade guard, I used a hole saw and bored a hole so I can mount the blade gaurd, at least I did on my first version, I have not done so on my current table. I probalby should, but I am one of those rebels that does not use a blade gaurd very often any way! Greg O
What kind of saw do you have?
Delta 36-982
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