Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold out for the
I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could save me
some time. I am now using a straight edge and a flush cutting router bit to
straighten edges. It works but is a bit labor intensive.
Your mileage may vary. Mine did.
I used hand planes to do my jointing. Lots of planes. And figured that
I was not really Roy, and didn't get all of the boards as true and flat
as they might be. So when a sweet, freshly rebuilt Delta-Rockwell 8"
machine, nearly as old as I am, was offered by a friend from the local
club, I wrote him a reasonably sized check. Built a rolling cart, made
space in the shop, and built some cabinets for the bathroom. Lots of
drawers, doors, face frames and shelves out of maple.
But it didn't go any faster, and I was still doing most of the touchup
with handplanes anyway. Last week, a friend mentioned he was looking
around for a jointer, so mine may have a new home soon. We'll see.
There are more cabinets to build - a kitchen or three, but I think I can
get these done just as well, just as quickly, with the cabinet full of
Always knew I had a streak of old fart in me...
Just don't buy a 6", thinking that you'll buy an 8" later. THAT math
always seems to be expensive. (Like $2500 worth of handplanes is
If using mostly sheet goods and start with surfaced hardwood, I can see
it, but can't if use much roughsawn lumber. I really can't imagine the
time to have to hand-prepare every face surface prior to even the first
pass through the planer to get two parallel surfaces...particularly in
August in an open shop in W KS! :)
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
I have the DJ-20 and it's great. Heavy and solid, and doesn't ever
seem to get out of alignment. Nice long bed too. This sucker is
heavy--two strong men to lift it onto the base. If you use a table
saw much you really need a jointer.
For me it was a balance between space, need and money.
I decided the 37-195 would fit in the space and I so rarely need to face
When the rare occasion comes up, I use a sled and run it through the planer.
The 37-195 is a good machine. It required some effort to get it tuned
perfectly as well as re-tapping and helicoiling on some of the threads do to
my over exertion but after the fussing around it works very well.
Cry once... I started with a 6" and ended up with a DJ-20. I recently ran
about 800 linear feet of 8-12 foot stock over it to get a good straight edge
before ripping to width. The boards came out straight with one pass--the
long bed works well. It's also real nice to handle stock 8 inches wide on it
with one pass. On that note, I wouldn't mind having a 12" or maybe a 16"
"R. Pierce Butler" wrote:
> Should I get a 6" jointer like the Delta 37-195 or should I hold
> 8" DJ-20?
> I am starting to add onto my shop and figure that the jointer could
> some time.
When it comes to a jointer, consider the following:
1) The one you are looking at absolutely won't fit in your available
space, no way will it fit.
2) You absolutely can't afford the one you are looking at, no way can
you afford it.
That is the jointer for you.
Ain't that the truth? I started with a 4" tabletop POS, went to a 6" and
finally ended up with the 8" aircraft carrier that now sits proudly in my
garage... uh, I mean shop. Looking back, I should have just bitten the bullet
and bought the 8" jointer to start with. Every time I use it, I smile. What a
Why not really hold out for one that David Marks owns?
No matter what you buy, there is another model that is just a little larger
for only more money.
The answer to such questions as this depend on the size of your shop and the
size of you budget. Only you know these two critical elements.
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:34:00 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
Despite all the comments you had so far about getting an 8" jointer
instead of the 6", there are a few facts worth noting before making
your final decision. If you're not on a budget and don't care about
spending money, please disregard the following notes and get an 8"...
1. For equivalent quality, the 8" cost twice as much as a 6".
2. You will rarely have to joint boards wider than 6". Of course, you
can buy them that wide but for any decent glue up that won't warp, you
would be better to split your board in 2 strips of 3" and joint/plane
them individually. So this is never an issue.
3. The size of the jointer doesn't affect the quality or the precision
like a tablesaw can (cabinet vs. contractor model). You can expect the
same results if you take care of your blades, if your jointer is
tune-up properly and if you use proper techniques.
4. A 6" will run on a regular 120V circuit as opposed to the 8" which
will require most likely a 220V outlet.
5. Footprint wise, the 6" is much smaller than the 8" so if you're in
a small workshop, the 8" might be eat quite a bit of space and since
jointing is usually done at the beginning of a project, it will be in
your way the rest of the time.
6. The beds on a 8" jointer are certainly longer than those on a 6"
but will this be useful to you? Longer beds just means the ability to
joint longer stock. Do you make moldings? If you make normal
furniture, you will hardly joint boards over 6' long which can be
handled very easily by a 6" jointer.
7. Assembling a 6" jointer can be done alone if you work smartly.
Assembling an 8" alone is not impossible but takes a lot more thinking
and "helping" devices...
As a last note, of course you may get frustrated a few times when you
want to joint at 6 1/8" wide board on a 6" jointer. You may even bite
your lips a few times and say "Hmmmmm, I should have bought a 8"
jointer instead"... But when it happens, just straight up one edge so
it can be ripped safely on the tablesaw under 6", then joint.
As you have probably guessed it already, I'm talking here by
experience... I have a 6" jointer and I didn't have the extra 1000$ a
8" jointer would have cost me. I've gone through the same thinking
you're doing now so I made my decision and don't regret it in the same
way I don't regret not having a timesaver, an oscillating spindle
sander, a shaper.
I figured out a 1000$ extra is too expensive for the once in a blue
moon frustration I may encounter with my 6" jointer.
Hope this helps,
Thanks Greg. You gave me some helpful points and food for thought. Maybe
I should just keep going with my handheld router, flush trim bit,
straghtedge and call it a day. I am just now starting to put my shop into
some kind of order after a hiatus of about 15 years. Tomorrow I pick up a
compressor, PC Plate joiner, and a monster Milwaukee router. I have some
kitchen cabinets to make as well as matching cabinets for the 2 and 1/2
I also need a dust collector so that will be next.
Well, I bought my 8" Delta Rockwell, freshly rebuilt and tuned for speed,
for $799. So this about an 'extra $1000' doesn't ALWAYS hold true.
Doesn't mean that you HAVE to buy an 8" jointer, however.
Another thought. There are several advantages of an 8" jointer over a
6". Even if you don't ever need the full 8" knife width, you can
move the fence over more area to increase the time between
sharpenings. This may not seem like a big deal until you have to
change the knives.
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