Which clear finish has the best adhesion properties

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If it's bare wood you're spraying, poly will harden over more time than a couple of days. It's still soft.
If you're spraying over another surface, you MUST scuff it up for anything to stick to it. Once the window for a chemical bond is over, scuffing it gives you a mechanical bond.
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:) had I known it was vinyl I wouldn't have mentioned shellac! How about an acrylic sheet? or tempered glass?
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:

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It's not vinyl. It's particle board covered in wood print veneer. It's more paper like than anything else.
Harry
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even worse! :)
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:

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Harry, tell them the rest of the story. That you want a clear coat that will stick to the slick paper veneer of some press board.
--
Mike G.
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I guess I should have explained everything from the start ... but I just didn't want a really long post.
I'm trying to protect Wood Print Veneer. I have a piece of furniture made of particle board covered in that wood print veneer that I want to protect with some sort of clear coat, but poly just peeled right off with my fingernail. I can't sand it cause I'll ruin the existing veneer, and I need to protect it because I will have a fish tank sitting on it.
Thanks, Harry
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On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:44:22 -0500, "Harry Muscle"

Not a strong finish, but wax might waterproof the paper somewhat. The epoxy I mentioned in the other thread might penetrate the paper as well. Might be easier to just get some wood and make the stand yourself.
--

- Charles
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-does not play well with others
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What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
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Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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Using shellac seems to be the general consensus. I've read that it's possible to dewax shellac yourself. If I can't get my hands on dewaxed shellac (I'm more or less limited to what Home Depot or Canadian Tire carries ... unless I want to drive far) could someone tell me how I would prepare normal shellac so that it would accept a coat of poly over it. Also is there any real difference whether I buy dewaxed or make dewaxed shel , xcept for time of course ... or in other words, which one is better?
Thanks, Harry
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no not again (G)
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Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
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First off, thank you to everyone who's following this thread and providing help. I tried applying the shellac last night, however, it beads up. If I spray just a thin layer it forms droplets on the surface. The only way to get a smooth surface was to spray so much shellac that it creates a puddle almost 1/16" thick. It did seem to stick better to the surface when I tried scratching it this morning, but the layer of shellac is so thick it looks really funny.
What materials would cause shellac (and water based urethane (Varathane brand name)) to bead up, while polyurethane goes on nice and smooth but doesn't stick well. Could it be wax? Or are there some plastics that shellac won't stick to (I though shellac would stick to most plastics)? I'm gonna start a new thread trying to find the answer to this one.
Thanks for all the help, Harry
P.S. I also wanted to say thanks for those comments pointing out the possible futility of spending all this time on something that is not even made of real wood. However, this project has now reached a "challenge" level where I would like to find the answer just to find the answer.
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