I bought a Narex paring chisel in 1/4". I figure it should do fer any
corner cleaning I need on 1/2" finger joints. So, I plan on 1/2"
finger joints made with a Japanese pull saw and cleaning up any cruddy
corners with the paring chisel.
Howzabout those 1/2" flats on the bottom of finger slots? I see how a
paring chisel cleans out corners and such, but what about chiseling
the sqr bottom of a finger joint. Izzat a different type of chisel
used to cut the flats between the 2 saw kerfs? If so, what kind?
nb --new to WW terminology
I forgot nada.
I've seen a coping saw used, on youtube. I kinda wanted to stay away
from that option. I think I might have a jewelers coping saw or I may
have given it to a pretty girl I was hitting on. Too old to recall.
You still haven't answered my question. A butt chisel or "bench"
chisel? Is there a difference? Lee Valley shows a Veritas® bench
chisel doing precisely what I need, but I don't have $70 to blow ona
single 1/2" chisel:
I was trying to get a purchase price up to "free shipping" on Amazon,
as Lee Valley Tools is pretty cool, but!!....they insist on charging
shipping based on the purchase of a single chisel.
IOW, you wanna buy 3 chisels and Lee will charge $8 shipping per
chisel, not put all three chisels in the same box and charge shipping
fer the weight of one box. Believe me. I called and asked.
I bought a single Narex 1/4" paring chisel from Lee. The box woulda
easily held 20+ chisels, yet they wanted to charge shipping fer ea
chisel I may have purchased. Sorry, but I prefer not to be chiseled!
Gee, too bad yer not the LV rep I talked to on the phone.
I thought I would be charged by the actual cost of shipping the tools
I ordered, not what LV happens to charge for shipping 'em. I can buy
a 1/2" Sweetheart chisel fer $39 on Amazon, $34 at LV. Only prob is,
LV wants $8 fer shipping fer that particular chisel. I wanted to
order one Narex chisel and one Sweetheart chisel. LV wanted to charge
me $8 each fer shipping. That's $16 fer a box w/ 2 chisels. The same
box they shipped one chisel in and a box that could have easily held
10-20 chisels. You do the math. Myself? I know when I'm being
Bottom line, Amazon will ship fer free after $49. I'm at
$40-something fer tha pull-saw. If I don't need some kinda big $$$$
special order chisel, I can make $49 easy.
nb --fixed income
The web link shows the shipping charges quite clearly.
Sorry about any mis-understandings with the phone rep.
I suspect that it is a very rare thing with LV.
Look for their free-shipping events - 4 or 5 times per year -
$ 40. minimum order usually.
Rather than playing the '1 chissel at a time' game why not just get a
set of good BENCH chissels and go from there?
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
If you insist on only buing a 1/2" (bench or butt) chissel to clean
out a 1/2" box joint you're going to wish you'd had gotten a 3/8"
Can you say "money"?
I'm happy you can afford whole "sets". I cannot.
I'm retired and on a fixed income and right now, $$$$ is in short
supply. Yet I still wanna buy good tools. Solve that dilemma and
I'll invite you over fer dinner. ;)
Wanting to buy good tools isn't "caviar taste". We all know
(or should) that buying a crappy tool just means you have to
buy it over again when it fails.
It seems to me notbob is doing the right thing in looking for
decent quality at a fair price, and filling the tool cabinet
a bit at a time.
Thanks, John. That's precisely what I'm trying to do.
I figure if I can get my workmate fixed and get a Nippon pull saw, I
can make the drawer box I need, plus learn something in the process.
I'm trying to do it for the least expense, yet I know I'll be doing
more drawers before I'm through. Prolly a face frame, also. My buddy
--with a lotta pwr tools-- will be up here in another month, then
things will change. He has a table saw, dado sets, a router plus
table, etc. All the stuff I need to knock these babies out by the
score. Until then, I spend what I can afford w/o buying junk. ;)
On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 10:36:22 AM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
You don't have to buy junk, but you should know there is a real line in the
sand when it comes to tool steel and its utility use.
Chisels are made from just about every kind of steel, depending on the make
r and their specs. But the real story to steel is its designed uses and it
s heat treatment when annealing/tempering. I am a confessed steel junky, n
ot as bad as I once was... but still... good steel makes me happy.
LN's A1 is no more than "OK". For the money you spend, they should be grea
t, not just good. My personal experience with them wasn't great. Most of
your air hardening steels such as A1, O1, etc., aren't that good at holding
an edge but were developed (in the case of A1, in Japan) for tool/die work
that required good abrasion resistance and toughness. I like O1 for cutti
ng tools more than A1, but of the three I like D2 best and have purchased s
everal cutting tools with in D2 and its finer carbides hold and edge better
(when properly treated) than most other tool steel. I really like D2, but
it is too hard for most to sharpen.
BTW, the "meh, OK" remark about LN chisels is also shared by Fine Woodworki
So what to do? You can go to the best steel such as the Crucible metals or
the newer high speed tools that use M2, etc. and give away a pay check per
chisel, or you can compromise.
When I started doing woodwork in a shop 40+ years ago, all the chisels were
1095, 1084, and some of the heavy "slicks" were 5200. A few of the chisel
s I used later had extra vanadium in their formula, but were still just car
I hate to sound so pedestrian, but they worked just fine. The old chisels
were softer than I liked being hardened only to about 55 or so on the Rockw
ell scale, but that also made them easy to sharpen, hone and touch up.
There are good values on these chisels out there if as pointed out before y
ou do some scouting on your own. For example:
These types of chisels can do the work you want and you can probably get th
em at a good price. Might take a few tries, but then again it might not.
I understand the money crunch as much as anyone, and I don't think you shou
ld deny yourself the fun of using a sharp chisel (even if you have to touch
it up more than the more expensive models), one that was made for a specif
ic job. By the way, a paring chisel is a great choice for the work you desc
ribed, but you should know that if you are only working on material 1/2" th
ick, a butt chisel with the bevel eased back a bit on the edge will work ju
The chisels to stay away from no matter how tempting are the new Buck Broth
ers, and in that line nothing newer than about 25 years old. No Sears Comp
anion line, although I have been pleased with utility value of their old ro
und handled butt chisel line. No generic "Sheffield brand" which are now s
old as a brand, not as a particular steel product. No Harbor Freight. No
off brands that are poorly milled and poorly finished.
One last thing, check this out for a ton of really valuable information and
some good opinions:
On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 00:02:47 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Thanks for all of that (saved), Robert. How does one go about
determining what one is buying? Obviously expensive doesn't mean
good. One would think LN would be pretty decent, given that their
prices are in the Festoolsphere.
I thought the article raved about "LN" (I'm assuming Lie-Nielsen)
chisels, although I didn't read the entire article (gotta join).
Likewise. Great info.
I have this Narex paring chisel in 1/4":
Seems like everyone is selling a different brand, yet not both of the
two things I need ('zuki saw + 3/8" bench chisel). Is that Grizzly
Japanese wannabe (not Matsumura) any good? It's still under $20.
I figure the Narex paring chisel will do the job, I jes need a 3/8"
"bench"(?) chisel to "cut" the wood slots from both sides. I'm
looking at coping saws, too.
I also acquired an old backsaw from a cheapo mitre saw set. It's all
rusty, but I got plenty of wet/dry.
Right now, I gotta order some parts fer my old Workmate 225.
Thnx fer all the great info. ;)
I was at Highland, looking at chisels, last Wednesday but didn't buy
anything - confused (too many choices ;-). I'll probably be back
Thursday (have to be in the area to see a surgeon about a scary-sharp
knife). I'll probably look again.
Try Highland and if you're ever in Atlanta, it's an awesome store.
They carry the whole line of green tools, in the store, too. ;-)
My miter saw isn't all that cheap but it's not a backsaw. I don't use
it much anymore.
I think I have that model. It's pretty battle scarred, too. Not sure
where it is, though.
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