I have a Sears 10" table saw that is about 15 years old and it has a
basic 1.5 hp Sears motor that I would like to upgrade. I like my saw
because of the cast iron top, Beisemeyer fence, Forrest blade,and the
upgraded belt and pulley setup. I am looking at either a 1.5 to 2.0 hp
motor from Baldor and I wanted to find out if anyone has made the
change and which motor did they go to. I have 220 available in my
garage so I can go that route also. What frame is standard, I thought
it was a 56 but there are various 56 frames so I am not sure, and also
does the Baldor really improve the overall power of the saw, any help
will be greatly appreciated.
The 56 frame is probably compatible with any other 56 frame for mounting
pattern and shaft size. Baldor probably has specs and dimensions available.
McMaster Carr gives a lot of motor information on their web page. Grainger
has a 1.5 hp motor listed as a table saw motor sold under their Dayton name.
Is you present motor still working? I'm not so sure a new motor is going to
be a big improvement.
My current motor is working but I am debating on getting a larger motor
for more power. I had looked at upgrading to a Grizzly 10" and it has a
3hp motor but I was not sure if I wanted to spend all that money or do
some upgrades to mine. My friend has a Grizzly 10" and it has more
power to it when I used his recently. Are you saying that to go from
the Sears 1.5 to a Baldor 2.0 hp will not be any significant gains in
over all power and ease of cutting wood, or should I look at a higher
hp like a 3 before I will gain additional power?
I will look but I do not think it will. If I find another motor that is
capable of 220 and the hp rating is 2hp or greater will the benefits of
running it 220 and having more hp make a considerable difference? I
build furniture on the side and it is not uncommon to cut 2" or thicker
Oak and other woods and my saw seems to struggle at times. I changed
the pulleys, belt and added the stabilizers and using a Forrest blade
it cuts better but I still feel that another motor that runs easier and
stronger would provide that additional boost.
Probably, although unless you have more than a single drive belt you may
have trouble transmitting all the torque under real load.
What is the actual nameplate rating? Is it one of the famous Sears 1.5
<peak> hp ratings, per chance? If so, an honest 1.5 hp would
undoubtedly be stouter.
It is a Sears 1.5 hp, and I am sure it is speaking of peak rating like
most of the other motors. What is the best way to understand what motor
will develop a true 1.5 or 2.0 hp rating, I am sure their is a way to
tell what is peak hp rating versus normal running operation hp? Also
will a real 1.5 hp 220 volt run stronger than a 110 version?
Baldor, Smaldor, a standard 56 frame motor is a 56 frame motor.
I say that as a registered smart ass who successfully competed against
Baldor selling motors for many years.
Look for a cap start, TEFC, Class "B", service factor 1.0, 56 frame motor.
A 1-1/2 HP, 1750 RPM machine wired for 240 VAC service will work quite well.
Take a look at what Grainger has to offer.
They have as good a product offering as anybody in the market place.
No that is not what I'm saying. In your original post you said you were
going to replace it with a 1.5 or 2 hp motor.
As you stated:
" I am looking at either a 1.5 to 2.0 hp
motor from Baldor and I wanted to find out if anyone has made the
change and which motor did they go to."
I will say that gong from a 1.5 to a 1.5 will gain you nothing. to go from
1.5 to 2 hp will gain power, but at 120V you may not have a capable breaker
and wire. If you go to 220, that is a better deal.
You're going to be limited on how much power you can transmit to the
blade on your Sears saw. The single belt is tensioned by part of the
weight of the motor as it pivots on its mounting bracket. The motor
has to pivot as the saw arbor is raised and lowered to keep the belt
tight. Once you reach the limits of that belt, it'll just slip
regardless of how powerful the motor is.
In order to use more horsepower, you have to feed boards faster into
the blade, which increases the forces on the arbor. This will tend to
deflect the parts that make up the arbor and trunnion assembly,
reducing the quality of cut. I assume the 3 hp Grizzly saw you mention
is a cabinet saw. Take a look inside to see how beefy the components
are compared to those on your saw. Sears had their saw designed for
1.5 hp, and didn't put any money into a structure to tolerate higher
The 2 hp motor will get you 33% more power than the 1.5 hp. If you're
not already using one, a thin kerf blade will make your power go
farther. Wiring for 240V vs. 120V may help if the wiring in your
supply circuit is dropping the supply voltage too much. (My genius
brother-in-law runs a Sears table saw with the Sears 1.5 hp motor on
the end of a 50 foot 16 gauge extension cord. The saw's motor draws
something like 16 full load amps on 120 volts. That would give a 16
volt drop in the supply voltage to the motor.)
I know someone that put a 2 hp TEFC motor on a Sears saw after the open
Sears motor clogged with dust and burned out. It seems to work fine,
but he's not cutting 8/4 oak.
It sounds like what you want is a cabinet saw. The Sears saw isn't
going to become one, no matter how much you spend. What if you sold
it, added in the $300 you're prepared to spend for the Baldor motor,
then buy a used Unisaw or equivalent? If you've got the old Sears
fence, transfer your Biesemeyer to the new saw. Then you'll have
something that will cut 8/4 oak all day without breaking a sweat. And
will be a pleasure to use each time between now and your estate sale.
on 6/15/2005 4:03 PM Duane Bozarth said the following:
Keep your eye on the local papers, you just never know. I'd been
looking for a decent table saw for months and other than later model
Craftsmans found them to be very scarce.
A week ago, SWMBO, asked if I was still looking for a saw and pointed
out one she spied in the local fishwrap before I'd had a chance to get
it. I figured with an asking price of $375 it was either a potential
gloat or somebody had lost their mind and was looking to make a profit
on a used Sears or Ryobi.
Turns out the guy had an old Jet (blue cabinet) JCS-10 with a 2hp
220volt motor, magnetic switch. Checked it out and found that the
original fence was replaced with an Excalibur TT45. Missing the blade
guard and splitter (which I'll have to replace) but otherwise in decent
shape with not much apparent use. Top cleaned up nicely and found the
belts a bit nasty (probably more from lack of use by the looks of it) so
they were replaced.
Former owner was moving and downsizing and so MAY have the missing blade
guard and splitter somewhere. He said that if he didn't, he'd buy me a
new one. Doubt he realized they sell for about $120 so if push comes to
shove, I'll offer to split it with him. Hopefully, when all's said and
one I'll have a nice cabinet saw for about $450.00.
Does this qualify as a gloat? Even a minor one?
Now I have to decide - in the midst of all that's being bantered back
and forth about RAS what to do with my 34 year old (closest guess)
Craftsman RAS which has been the centerpiece of my garage and, later,
workshop. Between the real estate demands of the cabinet saw and the
RAS, things are going to get tight. I've got a nice CSMS which will
function quite nicely for 90% of my cross-cutting needs but, jeez guys,
that RAS is like an old friend. How can I banish it?
Done more than one could expect and did it rather well. Yeah, it's a
pain to align but I've found over the years unless I have a jam while
ripping (yep, do it all the time and never had a "shooter" and I still
have all my digits)it stays put. All I ever needed to do was set it up
properly and RTFM and adjust it for angles, etc. the same way each time.
Now, only having used my father's old guard-less, splitter-less, 8"
ancient (circa 1950) Craftsman table saw ages ago, I face using the new
cabinet saw with the same trepidation that others assign to using the
RAS. Maybe that's good. Familiarity and comfort contribute to
accidents in the shop almost as much as stupidity. I was never familiar
enough with the RAS to cut without the guards properly adjusted and
probably never will be so that's 99% of the battle won.
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:10:13 GMT, Unquestionably Confused
==========snip snip snip ==========
I have owned that exact same saw (JCS-10) for the last 15
years...ordered it direct from Jet in 1988 with a real Biesmeyer 52 in
fence...and the optional Motor Cover..? why it was optional I have no
New I paid $900.00 including delivery..
Honestly Jet called it a Cabinet Saw...but it really is not a true
cabinet saw... that said after all these years I could care less...the
saw works.. !
After many many hours of use it still works just fine... and has given
me absolutely zero problems...
To be honest I threw the guard/splitter in the trash as soon as I
unpacked the saw... and ...went with an excalibur overhead guard...so
I really do not think you are missing anything...
Gloat..??? .Price was about right I guess...all I can say is that I
would not sell mine for that amount...I am not nuts !...
Check used machinery suppliers in your Yellow Pages. Sometimes you can
get decent buys, for instance, if a place that deals with metalworking
machinery has a table saw they don't want to bother with.
Estate and bankrupcy auctions can eventually turn up deals. In my
case, I'm familiar with the Sears saw because my wife's deceased father
had one. I overhauled it thinking I would use it. Then an estate
auction came up with furniture, linens, kitchenwares and an "industrial
table saw". <gloat on> It turned out to be a barely used Unisaw with
52" Unifence, HTC mobile base and HTC folding outfeed roller table that
I picked up for $450. <gloat off> I believe I still smile every time I
A local hardwood lumber dealer might also know who could have a good
saw at a decent price.
A bare Unisaw weights 450 pounds, so be prepared. Also make sure you
get a single phase machine unless you want to change the motor (hard to
find used, maybe $400 new) or deal with a phase converter or variable
frequency drive. I'm sure a Google search will turn up suggestions for
what to look for in a used machine.
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