What would you do?

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Kelly , that was essentially one of my solutions offered. I said to take a rabbit off both sides though. ( because my jointer can only do a max width of 3/4 inch for the rabbit.) Keep in mind that this only works for boards just a bit wider than the jointer.
After rereading his question and the responses, without a doubt the ONLY answer is GO BUY A NEW JOINTER!!! It's obvoius he was just looking for help with justification.
Tim, go buy that new tool!!!
Kelly E Jones wrote:

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Sheesh! Take off the high spots with the jointer to get a rough level. Half and half will even get you in the ballpark if you pay attention. As easy as trying to get a rabbet on a twisted piece of crap on the tablesaw. Can you say bind and kick? Of course you can.
If it's just cup versus twist, slide the fence to make narrow and reduce either edge of the frown to take the pressure off the middle as you run it through the PLANER. That's where the money should go.
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Kelly E Jones wrote:

Thats awesome Kelly! I find that even here the useful signal - noise ratio is pretty poor. Its tips like this that make it all worthwhile.
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Tim :
wrote:

Another idea, that might work - a router sled? I've seen them described in a whole bunch of magazines. Good for flattening dining tables, bench tops, etc.
Get it reasonable, then push it thru the planner.
MJ Wallace
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Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain it.

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I've
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CW wrote:

How can you "just plain it"? You'll get two sides that aren't paralell.
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Only if your planer is out of whack. Light passes on each side to clean up then plane to thickness. Unless your board has serious cupping/warp, the jointer is not needed.

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