I need to split some 4/4 x 2" QS White Oak to make some thin stiles
approximately 3/8" thick (minus half a saw kerf) for a paneling
system. The exact finished thickness is not important but I do need to
resaw the wood in half so that all pieces have very close to the same
I don't have a bandsaw but I do have a 20 year old reasonable quality
Sears contractors saw.
- What type of blade is best to use for this?
- Will this work reasonably on a table saw or do I need to find
someone with a bandsaw or other tool to do it properly?
I did it before I had a band saw, and it can work OK. You might get a
touch of burning. You'll need a handsaw to finish the cut.
- Adjust the cut depth to remain inside the limitations of your saw, you
may need to make multiple passes.
- Use a short splitter or riving knife. There's LOTS of wood for the
saw to grab here! You can easily make a short splitter like shown here:
- Leave a decent uncut center rib to be finished with a handsaw. Do not
try to cut all the way through or leave a center rib small enough to
break on it's own.
I agree. For some reason, I was thinking 2" thick, but wide enough to
need top and bottom passes.
For 2" thick stuff, it might be worth building a quickie holding /
pushing jig to get the final for through the blade as the stock gets
wide, shouldn't it cut in a single pass since I have a 10" blade.
And yes, I will use a push stick to finish up the cut
My concern was more about the burning since the cut surface
won't be showing. Given that my primary concern is uniformity of the
cut so that the wood lies flat on the panel and lines up with other
pieces, am I better off going through in one pass (at the risk of some
burn) rather than doing it in multiple passes?
(and unfortunately, I don't have a thickness planer either :)
If I understand you correctly, you want to cut stock that is 1" thick and 2"
wide so that you get two equal pieces, approximately 3/8" thick and 2" wide?
If so ... What I do/would do:
~ Install a good quality/sharp combination or rip blade on the table saw.
~ Use the formula: (stock thickness - blade kerf thickness)/2 = distance to
set blade from fence.
Example with stock thickness of 1" (16/16") and a blade kerf of 1/8"
(16/16 - 2/16) = 14/16 / 2 = 7/16 distance from blade to fence.
~ With your blade high enough to make your cut through the 2" stock, and
using a featherboard just in front of the blade to hold stock against the
fence, use a push stick to make your cuts.
Providing you measure your stock thickness and blade kerf carefully, this
should get you close enough to have two, equally thick, pieces of usable
stock from each cut ... with only some judicious sanding left to do.
With a 10" blade you can cut one side and flip it around and cut the
other side. I like to position the blade such that 1/4" is uncut
after both cuts, then separate the two with a hand saw. I found this
method is much faster than a band saw, although the width cut is
limited on a table saw. I'm very comfortable using a table saw, but
others prefer a band saw.
18 tooth flat ground thin kerf 20 degree hook rip blade
You could go as many as 24 teeth or have a saw shop modify a thin
kerf 24 tooth rip blade into a tripple chip configuration.
Fewer teeth = less burning.
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