What's your favorite lube for your lathe bed?

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I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.
What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube exists that will stay around a while?
I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more surface area it can trap some lube under it.
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Forget the graphite.

Wax. Just plain old Johnson's Paste Wax.
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Try using wd-40 and a scotch brite pad to clean the top AND especially the underside of the ways. scrub vigorously and wipe down with paper towels. Do the same thing to the bottom of tool rest, and the washer. When all is clean spray wd-40 on a clean paper towel and coat the ways (tops and underside) and the tool rest and washer. If you are turning green wood, you will need to do this frequently, maybe daily. If using dry wood, maybe every 2 months or so. Do NOT use graphite, it is too messy, and will smear your wood.
You might also post this questionon rec.crafts.woodturning
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Electric Comet wrote:

I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table, saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.
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 GW Ross 

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On 12/23/14 9:44 AM, Electric Comet wrote:

http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ezp-69.html
http://www.grainger.com/product/SUPER-LUBE-Dri-Film-Aerosol-44N743
--

-MIKE-

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On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 07:44:28 -0800, Electric Comet

Way oil perhaps???
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On 12/23/2014 4:32 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Metal lathe uses Way Oil. It won't run off a vertical surface :-) But for wood, it would look like a harry beast once a cutting / sanding took place.
Wax is the way for wood. Auto wax is very hard, liquid and cheap.
Martin
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wrote:

Actually Boesheild T9 works pretty good
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I agree. But being half Scotch (and half water) I have been satisfied with my concoction. It works for me, is cheap, and does not attract sanding grit like oil, grease, or --heaven forfend--mutton grease.
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.. everyone is too sheepish to suggest mutton tallow ..
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?pi309&cat=1,43415,43440
.. seriously though - WD40 should only be used - reluctantly - - when you're away from home, and don't have any rem-oil available. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants-2 John T.
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On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:32:53 -0500 snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Is that what you use? How do you like it? Looks appropriate for metal lathes.
I looked at southbend way oil and got caught up looking at the refurb they did on a 1926 lathe. Hate when that happens.
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On 12/23/2014 8:30 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

I use way oil on my metal lathe, but would not use it on the wood lathe. it will collect the dust and make a nice paste.
wax, or teflon for the wood lathe.. I use wax mostly. I use teflon on my table saws's arbor ways.
--
Jeff

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On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500

I may have to try this. How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do you use?
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Electric Comet wrote:

I shave the paraffin into thin pieces and drop them in a plastic bottle about half full of mineral spirits. Shake it every time you walk by. Keep adding wax until it is about as thick as 3 in one oil. You can use a spray bottle like 4 0 9 comes in. I use a pressurized refillable aluminum spray can that I bought years ago. I don't think they still make them. If the surface is gunky, I spray it, scrub it with a green scotch-brite pad, wipe it off and then mist it again.
Another thing I make is penetrating grease. I take a can of lighter fluid, pour it in a glass jar and add grease and shake it, adding grease until it is the thickness of motor oil, then pour it back in the lighter fluid can. A few drops on the cracks of a hinge and it penetrates. The lighter fluid evaporates, leaving a film of grease inside. I actually concocted it to use on bicycle chains. Have used this for the past 40 years.
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On 12/23/14 8:05 PM, G. Ross wrote:

Or just buy a can of Boeshield. :-)
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On 12/23/2014 9:05 PM, G. Ross wrote:

All in all it's close to butcher or johnsons paste wax, just a little more mineral spirits than they have.I tried making my own and realized that butchers was close enough.
--
Jeff

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On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 13:43:20 -0600

You use these? Or just suggesting? If you use them how do they perform?
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On 12/23/14 7:36 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

The links should be the same product, btw. I do use Dri-Film and it's excellent, especially for the lathe bed to avoid gunking up and/or collecting dust. You spray it on, the carrier evaporates and it looks and feels completely dry. But man is it slippery!
Others are suggesting ways of applying wax using old techniques that are labor intensive and unnecessary. If you decide to go the wax route, go with Boeshield T-9. They already did the work for you. You spray it on, the carrier evaporates, and you buff out any excess.
FWIW, I switched from T-9 to Dri-Film on my lathe because the T-9 is still a wax and it will collect some dust.
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-MIKE-

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On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:36:17 -0800, Electric Comet

I actually used the first spray superlub on my Myford metal turning lathe years ago and it worked pretty good.
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It *is* appropriate for metal lathes, where the shavings won't absorb the oil -- but it's totally the wrong stuff for a wood lathe.
Just get some Johnson's Paste Wax and be done with it.
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