Well I see your point - but there are plenty of places where a brad would be appropriate in a piece of furniture.
Well I see your point - but there are plenty of places where a brad would be appropriate in a piece of furniture.
Opinion. I don't believe they _all_ stink as my TI claimed, but his does have an elitist reek about it.
buck woke up at Thursday 14 October 2004 08:44 and had the following to say....:
I agree with the dry clamp idea. This also potentially points out any design flaws before you apply glue.
JAW
.... thanks for the dry clamp first idea.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 05:57:02 GMT, mac davis calmly ranted:
My fix: I DON'T STAIN.
Masking is the best bet by far. And keep the damp towels for your fingers, not the wood. Use a chisel or cabinet scraper on semi-hardened glue squeezout half an hour after the glueup. It comes right off and leaves no trace.
------------------------------------------- Stain and Poly are their own punishment
well, that was kind of my point, JAW.. I guess I was a bit too subtle..
my brother uses them in stead of clamps.. I'd rather clamp then fill holes later, but his way is faster both in the process and the time you can go to the next step of the project..
I had read that polyurethane glue would accept stain and not leave a white mark. I used Titebond poly glue. After drying, I scraped the squeeze out & sanded flush. While it's not as bad as yellow glue, it still left a telltale light colored area under my dark danish oil.
I'm curious what experience others have had with polyurethane glue.
Chris
So why is he called Abrams not Davis ?
Ayone know a good way to remove hide glue smears from cat noses ?
Herd them elsewhere?
problem usually is how to remove your shoe from a cats butt!!
huh? I missed something there, Andy... Abrams??
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