I will be using Titebond III and gluing two pieces of hardwood together, mahogany, oak, cherry etc. What I need is some opinions on how to remove the glue overflow. I have seen everything from using a damp rag to remove excess glue to people who say that it just pushes glue into the wood fibers. Some say let it dry and scrape it off..... I am afraid that any staining afterwards will show the glue line. Any ideas?
-TIA
If you are able to do the staining before you glue up, you're ahead of the game. Sometimes I have used painter's masking tape to cover areas subject to glue overflow and that helps. It's not perfect, but better than getting glue in the wood that then does not allow for proper staining. In some cases the "marker type" pens sold at most paint supply dealers can be used to cover up small areas where glue shows. GCS
GCS..... I never thought about staining prior to gluing.... It just might work for this particular project. Thanks for the info.
MY TWO CENTS WORTH - What you have heard, including the previous post, is true to an extent. However, I usually do not stain prior to gluing, especially with slabs, table tops, etc.
I usually wipe THOROUGHLY with a wet rag (wet, not just damp). Idea is to get the surface around the joint good and wet, dilute the glue and get it off of the project. Then follow with a dry rag to remove the moisture and diluted glue. Yes, this will raise grain on some woods but not much if done quickly.
Invariably you will have some additional glue come up during the drying process - let that set and scrape it off gingerly with a sharp chisel. Occasionally if I do not get a lot of runout from the joint, I just let it set and scrape. Also, I am usually inclined to just scrape the bottom of a slab glue up because the glue is more likely to form drops than pool.
Another thing to keep in mind is cover your joined surfaces with glue but don't overglue. The jury is always out on applying glue to both surfaces, but good coverage of one surface is probably enough. Then clamp the pieces together until they are joined and quit tightening the clamps. Over clamping reduces the glue in your joint and adds to the mess.
All of this amounts to glue philosophy that usually gets modified when you are up to your wrists in glue and the phone rings.
I have always use a very wet paper towel to get rid of squeeze out. Wipe several times turning the rag. Never have I ever had a problem with glue getting into the pores or grain of the wood. The wet rag will raise the grain but I very seldom sand before gluing. If you look at the directions on the Titebond III bottle you will find that the same technique is suggested.
I often finish things that the panels in a raised panel door before assembly. YMMV
I'm there. I started off gluing up like Norm... Rivulets dripping down. I've since backed way off - a light but thorough coating that results in minimal squeeze out during clamping. I'm no glue chemist by any stretch, nor have I done "long term hold" tests - but so far I'm happy with this lighter approach.
Thanks to all..... I will follow all of your advice and wipe completely with a "wet" rag and then follow up with a dry rag.......
-Appreciate It!
Yeah. I've noticed on recent programs that Norm is even backing off on glue use recommendations. Maybe Delta cut his budget.
And while I'm at it..... when clamping two pieces together..... should it be.... just snug.... tight..... really tight...... damn tight!
Tight enough to close any gaps but not so tight as to squeeze out all of the glue.
It should be just snug enogh to close the joint. If you have to use clamps to force the joint, then you need to take another look at the joinery.
When I glue up panels, I know I got the pressure right if the clamps are just barely loose when the piece has dried.
As for the original question -- I stopped wiping glue off with a wet/damp/sopping rag. If you let it set for 15-20 minutes, you can peel it right off with a plastic bread-bag tab.
Chuck Vance
Snug. Too tight simply leaves imprints in your wood where the clamp was located. You want to see squeeze out and that is plenty.
:) Well Delta is marketing a brad nailer now...
What I do when I really want to make sure no glue shows it put painters tape on the joining edges, apply the glue, the runoff glue will get on the tape and some wood area, wait for the glue to bead, and then use a scraper/razor to remove it, then remove the tape!
Alittle extra work, but no glue marks!
~Kam (^8*
patrick conroy woke up and had the following to say....:
Nails should never be in any cabinet where glue could be used.
"JAW" Still not quite awake, blurted
That is just wrong. Are you going to glue in 1/4 round behind a pane of glass in a cabinet door. Sure you could glue the 1/4 round behind the glass and rebuild the door if the glass gets broken.
Masking tape over the areas the glue will squeeze out onto, then just remove the tape
John
I've been getting good results with TB III by just following their instructions... I keep a roll of shop towels over the bench and pull one down and get it damp before gluing.. Also, after reading about it here, I got a few rolls of blue 3M masking tape and use it to "mask" the edges of the glue joint... saves a LOT of hassle!
or the *#!%# cat brushes against your ankle... arggggggggggg....
I used to squeeze the sh*t out of everything... I'm surprised that there was any glue left in the joint!
I learned here that you dry clamp things first... it IS a PITA, but many things that you do in a hobby are.. lol If it doesn't dry clamp square and tight with gentle clamping, glue will NOT make it fit better...
"Don't drink and park. Accidents cause people"
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