What's next to buy?

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If you get a drill press, make sure you get one that has a spindle travel of at LEAST 2.5", preferably longer. It may take time to find a model you like with this underappreciated feature, and maybe cost a little more, but IMHO, its worth it.
John
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I agree with Edwin. Get at least a 12" swing. I got a bench top DP with a 10" swing and it's the bare minimum I could live with. I would've been nice if I had gotten one with a 12" swing at least.
Layne
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 20:35:55 GMT, "searcher1"

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On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 22:46:18 -0800, Layne <> wrote:
The main difference I've noticed between bench top and floor standing drill presses is quill travel.
Most bench tops have 2 1/2" to 3" of quill travel. Most floor standers have 3 1/2" to 4 1/2" or more of quill travel.
Barry
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searcher1 wrote:

A lot of people have them and claim they're just dandy, but every one I've ever looked at has been incredibly crappy.
My first drill press was a 10" benchtop. It was very useful, but I found it somewhat limiting. Two or three years later, I swapped for a 15" floor model. If I had it all to do over again, I would have gone straight for the floor model.
I rarely use more than a quarter of the table travel, but I very regularly use more table travel than I had on the benchtop. It has a beefier chuck that runs truer, and actually grips small bits better than the smaller chuck did. A floor model can do everything a benchtop can do, but the reverse just isn't true.
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Get the tool that you actually need. If you have no need right now, wait until you do have a need. Waiting until you have a need insures that you get the correct NEXT tool.
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unless he gets Craftsman or HF. [running and ducking for cover]
Just kidding folks! It's a funny. Not meant to impugn your favorite brand. Save the flames for when I'm seriously rotten. This is a J-O-K-E.
What's the appropriate acronym for running/ducking. I used to use it on Compuserve. The mind is the second thing to go...
dave
Leon wrote:

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On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 22:54:02 +0000, Bay Area Dave wrote:

<...>

Used to be GDR or GD&R or GDAR- Grinning, Ducking, and Running.
--
Joe Wells


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that's it. thanks, Joe.
dave
Joe Wells wrote:

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I agree with this concept 99.9%...the only knock on it is that often, if you wait until the last minute, you end up having to buy less of a machine than you otherwise would have since the ONLY DP/OSS/BS that is available now or for the next 3 weeks is this Harbor Fright-type thing.
This can, obviously, be worked around by figuring out what you'll need BEFORE actually making chips/dust, but how many of us haven't jumped into a job just a teensy bit too quickly?
Mike
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wait
you
you
than
Nawww.. You do it the MANLY way... It's the thrill of the hunt. Shop every thing all the time so that when the need arises you acn jump on it fully informed.
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if you plan to edge join any boards you better get a jointer.
--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"searcher1" < snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMverizon.net> wrote in message
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Geez and to think that for 6 years I was edge joining boards and not using a jointer...;~)
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Yeah, I have been using my router and a stright bit to give me a stright edge which to join, so I guess if that is working for me right now I can put off the jointer. Plus I get an almost perfect cut with my TS, at least when I make the cut I can flipp the boards and have them butt perfectly. I think that I will go with a 12 in DP now, on to which model to choose. I have a budget of 200.00 and would also like to get a set of forstner bits with the money.
Rich

a
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Where on earth did my A go in the straight?

using
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searcher1 wrote:

Stright to Ozstralia? (-:
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Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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It was assimilated by the second "p" in flip.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
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I didnt even catch that one....
Rich

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You can also clamp a board on top of a piece of 12" wide plywood and let the plywood ride along the fence. Then cut the glue line on the TS where the board overhangs the opposite edge of the plywood.

using
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Big congrads on the router/table saw use for squaring boards. That is how we learn. Recent tool book had Rigid DP, 15 inch as a good #2, which was $100 USD less than #1. My BORG has that for $298. Patience is more than a virtue.
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It depends, of course, on what you need to do. You can't resaw a board with a drill press and you can't bore a square hole with a bandsaw. You have to think about what you want to do that you currently can't because you don't have the tools to do it with.
(That said, I can tell you the my DP gets used far more often than my BS, and also far more often than I ever thought it would.)
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 19:15:29 GMT, "searcher1"

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