what is the value of a sears craftsman10 inch radial arm saw model no. 113.29411

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El jueves, 26 de septiembre de 2013, 9:44:02 (UTC-5), Sandra escribió:

ftsman10-inch-radial-arm-saw-764332-.htm

IM LOOKING FOR ONE OF THIS SAWS, PLEASE CONTACT ME IF YOU HAVE ONE FOR SALE .
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Hello... You still looking for a sears/craftsman 10" radial saw? I have one for sale... Let me know if your interested... Thanks. My email snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com
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El jueves, 26 de septiembre de 2013, 9:44:02 (UTC-5), Sandra escribió:

ftsman10-inch-radial-arm-saw-764332-.htm

I NEED ONE PLEASE CONTACT ME AT snipped-for-privacy@GMAIL.COM
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On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 19:10:00 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

And you're willing to send a cashiers check (for more than the sale price), right?
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If anyone still needs a radial arm saw. I have one with the bottom cabinet im guessing its a 1960ish model.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

You'll have to give us more information if you want to get rid of it. Start with the 4 double-U's: Who you are What you have (including model number or any identifying marks) Where it is What condition it is in
Puckdropper
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On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 1:20:48 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If you are local, I may be interested thanks
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Another "it depends", but if it is in good condition don't price too low. I let one get away from me about 2-3 years ago that was priced at $375. But it was in excellent (like new) condition and it was bundled with quite a few accessories including the Craftsman shaper head and blades, a dado he ad, several decent regular and carbide blades. It had the metal base and t he top (cutting surface) was in pretty good condition. I "thought about it " 2-3 hours too long. The guy that bought it talked the seller down to $32 5.
A lot of folks still like these older Craftsman machines and accessories th at were manufactured before Sears quality went to pieces.
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On 10/23/2015 4:21 PM, RonB wrote:

If you want a radial arm saw, those older Craftsman saws are the ones to aim for. I have one that was in that recall for the blade guard. I got it around 1973 and it was probably 1969-70 vintage. When set up carefully and using a good blade (Freud rip) I could rip 2x so smoothly you could knock down the sharp edges and finish it. The cut was like it had been planed and, unless you screwed up and jammed something on a rip, it would stay that way. Plenty of cast iron where needed. The bastards would not make a retrofit kit for and instead offered owners $100 and shipping to send the power head back to take it out of service.
The new models I see all the time on Craigslist. If they are selling for more than $80, chances are they are still available. Nobody seems interested in them (likely for good reason as the newer ones were cheaply made)
I believe they were made right around the time that the Craftsman label was OFFICIALLY changed to Crapsman!<g>
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OK, just for curiousity, why would you want one? What would be the advantage of a radial arm saw over a compound miter saw, assuming you had a table saw for ripping?
20-odd years ago the consensus of rec.ww was that radial arm saws were potentially more dangerous in ripping operations, and were hard to keep in adjustment when switching between ripping and crosscutting (because of the weight of the motor at the end of a long lever arm). So it doesn't seem that, even if available at a very low cost, a radial arm saw would be the preferred solution for general woodworking.
John
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On 10/24/2015 8:53 AM, John McCoy wrote:

Well, to answer (merely to satisfy your curiosity), you must consider the tools that were available to the homeowner ca 1973.
Starting in the following year I began doing remodeling and additions to our home, built cabinets and book cases, made molding and trim pieces (yeah, still have that scary molding head). At this point I don't honestly recall if, or of what quality, the miter saws were that were "homeowner" grade.
I have to agree with you - at least with regard to newer RAS - about the adjustment/alignment due to the arm. More of a problem (as I stated) with, say, post vintage 1975 RAS that the earlier ones. I'd wager that even today if you let me sharpen up that Freud rip blade and tweak the adjustment on the saw, I could rip down a 14' 2x12 leaving an edge as smooth as a baby's butt and do it ALONE or with the assistance of my wife at the outfeed end.
40+ years ago things were different. My remodelings, additions, cabinets and bookcases still stand and I defy you to tell me they'd have turned out any better or worse using Fein, Festool, Jet, Powermatic, etc.
And yes, I still have all my fingers, both eyes, and no holes poked in me by power tools. I also now have a cabinet saw, planer, jointer, drill press, 12" compound miter saw (this is number 2), stationery belt and disk sander and probably just about any other power hand tool one could want.
I made do with what I had available at the time as we all did/do.
YMMV <g>
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Ah, apologies, I was unclear. I meant why would someone want one now. Certainly in times past, before sliding compound miter saws and high-powered routers that could spin panel raising bits existed, the radial arm saw had many advantages.
I'm just not seeing why someone would want to go buy one today.
John
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On 10/24/2015 1:37 PM, John McCoy wrote:

+1
but again, that's my position based on the current crop of crap that's out there. If there existed today, the RAS of yesteryear, I would still recommend it as a multipurpose tool for non-idiots (fully realizing that they are not ideal if one doesn't know WTF one is doing <g>)
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If you've got the space, it can be a major asset in rare cases. A RAS does non-through crosscuts better than just about anything. Things like Dados and Rabbets. A table saw and sled will work, but a RAS is more convenient when things get to be rather long or heavy. (I bought mine to handle some dados on deck posts.)
Here's an interesting thought, though. Would an old DeWalt RAS be better at crosscuts than a similarly priced SCMS? I know my SCMS does can be easily pushed out of square, but maybe an old DeWalt would make that harder.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 10/24/2015 7:37 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

[snip]

My money would be on the old DeWalt. Hell, the arm on those things weighs more than most high end SCMS.
Ran across an OLD 12" AMF DeWalt at an estate sale several years back. No room nor need of it then (or now for that matter) but I'll admit to considering it. Going to guess that it was probably very late 50's, maybe early 60's vintage as the arm was entirely cast iron and rounded at the operator end. Newer ones, IIRC, had some stamped trim.
This was in good condition and the type you used to see at lumber yards.
It went out the door for ~ $45 on the final day of the sale. Somebody deserved a "You Suck" award.
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On 10/24/2015 8:53 AM, John McCoy wrote:

1. Horizontal hole boring. yes I did that with mine many years ago. 2. Works more like a shaper, if using a molding head cutter, than a TS. 3. Can be used as a planer, Yes I did that too to flatten a butcher block surface with a planer cutter attachment.

I first bought a RAS in 1979 and used it to build numerous pieces of furniture including our current bed room dresser.
They have their uses.
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A RAS is the Bees Knees for cross-cutting dadoes.
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snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) wrote in

Thanks to you and Leon both. None of those applications had occured to me (and, to be honest, I've never seen a RAS used except for the ancient monster the lumberyard uses for crosscuts).
John
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On 10/26/2015 11:47 AM, John McCoy wrote:

Image posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking says all...
--

Digger



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On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 9:56:10 AM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:

Up until a few years ago I was involved in an activity that involved cutting steel plates, anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2" thick. Some of the plates were up to 12" wide.
Multiple (multiple) passes with an abrasive blade on a radial arm saw worked great. With the steel clamped securely to the table, I could make some very accurate cuts. I had jigs for some of the odd shaped pieces that I needed. Multiple slow, shallow cuts were the trick.
I tried my miter saw with an abrasive blade for some of the smaller items but the RAS did a much better job. I had much more control since the height adjustment of the RAS determined the depth of cut and the speed was determined by how fast I moved the blade across the material.
You just had to make sure that everything was secured properly. Keeping track of where the sparks flew was important too. ;-)
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