What is the process for gluing Teak

[yobosaeyo]

Getting ready to assemble. I heard that you can't straight glue due to waxy texture? Thanks in advance, Kevin

[stoutman]

Wipe with acetone first.

[yobosaeyo]

Thanks, that's what I was thinking but not too sure. Now how about what type if any of a finish on it. I am making a jewelry box for swmbo. Kevin

[Phisherman]

Norm cleans the surface with acetone before applying glue.

[stoutman]

Paraphrased from Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner:

If you are gonna use an oil or varnish wipe the surfaces with a cloth dampened with naptha or lacquer thinner to remove the oils from the wood. And apply the finish before oil has time to bleed back out from the wood.

[Steve Knight]

freshly mill it dampen both pieces and use a poly glue on it. You can use epoxy too and don't dampen it. acetone does not really help much. I glue a hell of a lot of oily woods and my tests showed if I use gorilla glue and the steps above I get perfect glueups.

[yobosaeyo]

So you think Gorilla glue over tightbond 2?

[Lew Hodgett]

It's epoxy time.

Don't send a boy.

[Belleauwood]

FWW had an article on this recently and they found that wiping the surface wtih acetone or the like did not help gluing oily woods. They found no difference in the amount of PSI required to break a glue joint that was wiped with a solvent vice one that was left natural. They found that lightly sanding the surface immediately prior to glue up dramitically increased the strength of the joint and was the best method for gluing these kinds of. woods. That's just what I read, I have no personal experience.

[Steve Knight]

for oily wood yes. all my tests showed it worked far better. as long as you follow the recommendations above.

[Steve Knight]

you and your epoxy (G) but the problem with epoxy is you can get those invisible tight joints. got to have some glue in between the boards.

[yobosaeyo]

Thanks for your input Steve. Much appreciated. Kevin

[Lew Hodgett]

Never had that problem.

Just clamp firmly and get on with it.

My biggest problem is using too much epoxy and getting "ooze" which can be a PITA to clean up.

[Steve Knight]

but have you edge glued up boards? from all the pro's you need to leave a film of epoxy between the boards. with wide surfaces it would not be a issue but with edge glueups when I get something other then the 5 minute epoxy I should test it. but epoxy is too much of a hassle to use all the time in woodworking.

[Steve Knight]

yep or planing/milling the surface then glueup right away. that's what I do. I run the wood through the planer then glue it up right away. I found a bit better glueup if I wiped with acetone but not much. fresh milled wood is the most important thing.

[Lew Hodgett]

Absolutely; however, a saw cut edge usually provides enough "tooth" for the epoxy to bond to the wood.

Never consider using 5 minute epoxy for anything other than an a temporary emergency repair.

Without question, epoxy is unnecessary for general wood working applications; however, I don't consider real teak to be an indoor furniture/cabinet material.

It represents a special case IMHO.

[Dave]

A planer? I never thought I'd be reading that. I always visualize Knight Toolworks as a very quiet old world neander-mecca(tm). ...

[Steve Knight]

I would have to be the bionic man to hand plane all of the purpleheart and ipe I use (G) I would wear a plane out a month (G) but I still don't have a jointer (G)

[Larry Jaques]

On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 07:35:51 GMT, "Dave" brought forth from the murky depths:

Hell, if he used his own tools to do the work, it would make them cost 3x as much. Our Steve is a regular Nahmite with sanders, planers, dust collectors, electric lights and everything.

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[Steve Knight]

I miss using more hand tools. I remember planing all my planes I made and using files on them. it was faster then sanding for sure. but I don't have many more power tools now then when I started. I don't have very many lights though (G)