What is the hardest smoothest finish?

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Here is the problem:
I have a rotating wheel that bumps up against a finish that is put on wood.
What finish should I put on the wood to make the friction between the wheel and the wood at minimum.
My first thought is poly - but my first thoughts are too often wrong.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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Tom Watson wrote:

anything like that is going to wear off sooner or later. I am assuming that there is no way to adjust the mechanics such that the wheel does not rub against the wood.     happy new year,     jo4hn
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wrote:

Mahalo nui loa, Jo4hn.
You assume correctly.
The plastic wheel must rub against the wood finish without assistance from bushings, eschutcheons, etc.
The good news is that it only has to do so for a brief period.
The desired finish would have to provide the most frictionless encounter of the two surfaces, with a bit of help from a dry graphite lube.
This involves questions of chemistry.
The finish can not be such that it would be destroyed or softened by the lubricant.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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Tom Watson wrote:

We had good luck with 3-4 coats of Krylon Klear Kote, or however you spell it. Can't say just how hard it is, but it didn't show any signs of wear after many many trips down the track. Makes the car look good too and keeps the decals on. Used it on three first place winners.
DonkeyHody "Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
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Tom Watson wrote:

hey slick,
Laquer also can be bought in a spray can and Eagle One has an automotive wax with Teflon. Pretty da** slick. Without any real load bearing, laquer and teflon should be a killer combo on a small, tiny, lightweight vehicle. Good luck!
Tom in KY, just say your son wanted it to shine like the sun!
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Tom.. does it have to be a "finish" as opposed to an overlay?
Lots of factory stuff is made with a laminated sheet good that looks like thin formica but is some sort of teflon derivative...

mac
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Is the use of a wood washer also prohibited?
I'd think that besides making the wheel slide better at the friction point, you'd also want to minimize the SIZE of the friction point... but then again, my math really sucks and I haven't got a clue about figuring out friction/surface area..
mac
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Pinewood Derby season again?
Barry
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"Tom Watson" wrote in message

Powder coating? ... it's now being done to wood/wood products.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
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That's a good thought, Swing.
But, the technology right now is such that it involves very specific kinds of MDF products. (I'm involved with this at work a fair amount)
I'm talking about a solid pine object.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 19:18:14 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Tom

No escutcheon plate? How about a thick layer of clear epoxy? It would build and add layers of wear prior to looking bad.
--
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is to fill the world with fools.
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Thanks to everyone for the ideas.
I like the idea about embedding the graphite in the surface film.
Gonna try that one out.
Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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wrote:

So? Is it Pinewood Derby season? <G>
Barry
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On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 23:36:57 GMT, Ba r r y

2/6/06.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcast.net (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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wrote:

Go get 'em!
Let us know how the Watson crew fares!
Barry
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Tom Watson wrote:

Some of that bar top epoxy is about the hardest finish I know of.
Or you could inset a piece of some hard substance (plastic, metal, glass?) at the point of contact.
--
It's turtles, all the way down

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On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 16:30:31 -0800, Larry Blanchard

No fair using other than the general finish.
The finish must be such that it provides the most friction free surface when in contact with a plastic wheel.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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Tom Watson wrote:

Lots of paste wax?
You only have to get it to the finish line a few times, right?
er
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Tom Watson wrote:

Oops - I didn't realize what you were building :-).
--
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Tom Watson wrote:

My first thought is also probably wrong. I'm a big fan of laquer finishes. It absorbs well, layers nicely, polishes to a high luster. But over pine? Wouldn't this fact negate the hardness of any finish? Pine makes me think of epoxy finishes. They harden the surface they're applied to and work very well to water-proof the hulls of wooden watercraft. Very high bonding strength.
Tom in KY, fighting friction of all sorts every day.
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