What is the hardest smoothest finish?

Here is the problem:

I have a rotating wheel that bumps up against a finish that is put on wood.

What finish should I put on the wood to make the friction between the wheel and the wood at minimum.

My first thought is poly - but my first thoughts are too often wrong.

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

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Reply to
Tom Watson
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Probably stainless steel bumper. You might try Behlen's Rock Hard but anything like that is going to wear off sooner or later. I am assuming that there is no way to adjust the mechanics such that the wheel does not rub against the wood. happy new year, jo4hn

Reply to
jo4hn

Mahalo nui loa, Jo4hn.

You assume correctly.

The plastic wheel must rub against the wood finish without assistance from bushings, eschutcheons, etc.

The good news is that it only has to do so for a brief period.

The desired finish would have to provide the most frictionless encounter of the two surfaces, with a bit of help from a dry graphite lube.

This involves questions of chemistry.

The finish can not be such that it would be destroyed or softened by the lubricant.

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

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Reply to
Tom Watson

Powder coating? ... it's now being done to wood/wood products.

Reply to
Swingman

That's a good thought, Swing.

But, the technology right now is such that it involves very specific kinds of MDF products. (I'm involved with this at work a fair amount)

I'm talking about a solid pine object.

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

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Reply to
Tom Watson

Some of that bar top epoxy is about the hardest finish I know of.

Or you could inset a piece of some hard substance (plastic, metal, glass?) at the point of contact.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

My first thought is also probably wrong. I'm a big fan of laquer finishes. It absorbs well, layers nicely, polishes to a high luster. But over pine? Wouldn't this fact negate the hardness of any finish? Pine makes me think of epoxy finishes. They harden the surface they're applied to and work very well to water-proof the hulls of wooden watercraft. Very high bonding strength.

Tom in KY, fighting friction of all sorts every day.

Reply to
squarei4dtoolguy

No fair using other than the general finish.

The finish must be such that it provides the most friction free surface when in contact with a plastic wheel.

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

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Reply to
Tom Watson

Tom Watson wrote: I have a rotating wheel that bumps up against a finish that is put on

Sherwin Williams used to have a product called Rex-thane. It's a commercial strength poly intended for high traffic areas, floors, etc.

Tom

Reply to
squarei4dtoolguy

You sly devil. We had good luck with 3-4 coats of Krylon Klear Kote, or however you spell it. Can't say just how hard it is, but it didn't show any signs of wear after many many trips down the track. Makes the car look good too and keeps the decals on. Used it on three first place winners.

DonkeyHody "Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."

Reply to
DonkeyHody

Epoxy, I would think. But now there are a dizzying quantity of epoxies on the market. I would think one of the metal types (think JB Weld) would buff out smoothest w/ a Dremel. You might call 3M and ask.

How about this: you can't add parts apparently, such as a simple tiny (yet highly polished) washer, correct? Is the axle still a nail, as it was when I was a boy? How about modifying the nail? You could pound it out where a washer would be to form a washer of sorts, just something to keep it from contacting the wheel.

Interesting question.

H.

Reply to
hylourgos

On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:27:07 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Tom Watson quickly quoth:

That one is. Screw or glue on a steel snubbing plate, Tawm.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 19:18:14 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Tom Watson quickly quoth:

No escutcheon plate? How about a thick layer of clear epoxy? It would build and add layers of wear prior to looking bad.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

The finish can not be such that it would be destroyed or softened by

hey slick,

Laquer also can be bought in a spray can and Eagle One has an automotive wax with Teflon. Pretty da** slick. Without any real load bearing, laquer and teflon should be a killer combo on a small, tiny, lightweight vehicle. Good luck!

Tom in KY, just say your son wanted it to shine like the sun!

Reply to
squarei4dtoolguy

a little paste wax where the parts come together?

Reply to
bridgerfafc

Lots of paste wax?

You only have to get it to the finish line a few times, right?

er

Reply to
Enoch Root

Shellac under wax?

-------------------- Steve Jensen Abbotsford B.C. snipped-for-privacy@canada.mortise.com chopping out the mortise. BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps. Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95. WW'ing since 1985 LV Cust #4114

Nothing catchy to say, well maybe..... WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!

Reply to
Scorp

Tom, How about mixing some diamond powder in with poly? You can get the dust

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aluminum oxide mixed in to poly such as used on pre finished floors.

Reply to
klaatu

How much do you want to put into this, Thomas?

Supposing all the responses are correct in what the 'project' is . . . it is presumed to be an 'indoor' {NOT exposed to UV} item. With that in mind *my* recommendation would be the following schedule - 1} Sand up to 220 grit 1a}If color is desired, use WB DYE at this point 1b}When completely dry, sand away 'fuzz' 2} 'Tack' and vacuum clean 3} Apply a thin, well pushed coat of HARD {5:1 formulation}epoxy {RAKA is the brand I use - glad to give you some} 4} Within 24-hours, apply another coat 5} Apply a third coat as above. 6} After 24-hours, examine with a glancing light and apply a 4th coat as necessary. 6a}Allow to 'cure' for at least 7 days. 7} WASH with warm water {add a drop or two of a mild liquid dish detergent} 8} Dry & sand {with block}using secceedingly finer grits . . . to 340. 9} Apply 3 {or more} thin coats of a clear WB Poly. Sanding between coats to at least 600 Wet. 10} Apply at least two coats of paste wax . . . WELL BUFFED OUT.

Obviously this will take quite a bit of time. What you WILL have is a solid, very hard and very flat base. This will be covered by a very hard intermediate layer {that can be re-need}, to which the 'slick' layer can be repeatedly re-applied. It is also almost totally impervious - and thus allowing experiments with various 'just before use' treatments. Note that 'as is' it is dry and NOT a 'dust collector'.

Regarding the comment about the axle . . . I would fine sand/burnish then polish, wax, & buff well as needed.

Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

SNIP

Reply to
Ron Magen

Alright - my curiosity is peaked. How about building two while you're at it and finishing one with just a couple coats of poly that you knock down with some 1500 and maybe hit with a little rubbing compound. I'm going to get daring here, but I'm going to bet it performs just as well as this and previous suggestions. Not to dismiss the value of this and other suggestions, but how much is enough for the given application? Frankly, I don't know - that's why my bet is daring, but I'm willing to put my collection of fruit fly wings up as collateral for my bet.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

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