I have a project that I have just finished sanding. What is the best way to remove the sawdust before finishing it? I seem to remeber reading something recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a residue?
Thanks.
Stacey
I NEVER use tack cloths any longer. A good shop vac with a round brush attachment (I wrap tape around the brush to stiffen them) is what I use. Sometimes I also blow out the pores with a heavy blast of compressed air (with the doors open with cross ventilation so the dust goes bye-bye), followed by the aforementioned vacuum treatment. I use fast drying finishes and have no trouble with dust. Cloths can leave bits of lint. Tack cloths can mess up your finish.
Dave
Stacey wrote:
With oil, I don't bother. It just doesn't seem to make any difference.
With varnish, I use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
Compressed air from a tank isn't such a good idea. Lubircating oil, and moisture can be sprayed onto your project, and that will definately stain wood, or screw up finishes. Go with dave's aforementioned vacuum treatment.
SCB.
recently to stay away from tack cloths as they leave a
Scraping. It is a whole art of it's own:
Good point; you have to spray ONLY clean air!
Dave
SatansCabanaBoy wrote:
I like compressed air and/or the same solvent as the first finish coat, except water. Water raises the grain. My most often prefinish wipe-down is done with mineral sprits.
If I'm staining, I often don't get crazy about removing dust, as the washcoat, stain, barrier, and clear coats will get light rubs between coats. A blast of air is fine. Oiling is even easier, as the wiping of the oil removes dust.
I've had no problems with store bought tack cloths used to wipe dust from between-coat scuffing of varnish, shellac, and lacquer.
I don't use a lot of water base finishes, but others here do. They can comment on tack cloths and sawdust removal for those finishes.
Barry
I use a vacuum, a tack cloth and a wipe down with naphtha in that order. The naphtha will take away any tack rag residue and it is good for removing all the other gunk sticking to your wood like skin oil, and oil, grease and wax from machines. There are also tack rags available that don't use a sticky residue, but collect the dust in the fibers of the cloth.
Is it true this is less of a problem (or no problem) with oiless compressors? Is there a reliable, inexpensive way to filter otherwise?
I do it with an oiless. Yes, there are filters available if you have oil in the air. This is more important with older compressors as the rings wear. It is also a method I use only if the weather is warm enough to do it outside. In the shop you just blow a lot of air and stir up more dust.
I use mostly waterborne finishes therefor wipe down with denatured alcohol or even a damp ( with water) rag. If you don't flood the surface with water there is not much grain raising and it is looked after with the first light sanding. Cheers, JG
Ba r r y wrote:
You'll find a ton of other similarly dangerous solvents to do the same job. However, I'd recommend alcohol as being the lesser of all evils [when used externally :-) ]. Volatile naphtha is positively definitely out in my book.
Also recommended, likely understood, but worth a mention ...a lightly damped cloth, used quickly enough to avoid evaporation, not a soaking of the wood.
On Mon, 30 May 2005 03:51:00 GMT, the inscrutable "Fourleaves" spake:
Harbor Freight has filter/regulator sets on sale for $20 quite often. Grab one of those and your compressor will be set for life.
I blow off any sanding dust (or, more often, scraping curlies) then wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. Within minutes, I'm putting finish on. Since I like wiping varnishes and satin finishes, dust isn't as large a problem for me as it is with those who like those glaring pinanner finishes.
P.S: Please learn to bottom-post.
pinanner?
Unfortunately, nothing compares to naphtha for cleaning up grease and oil and just because you can't see any doesn't mean it isn't there. Alcohol doesn't put a dent in it, nor does acetone. For a graphic illustration of this, try cleaning something greasy or oily in each. It is a fire hazard, but not as much so as gasoline, which we use regularly in much greater volumes and even more dangerous circumstances. Filling up your car is an accident waiting to happen. You have a large volume of extremely volatile and extremely flammable fuel with an enclosed space above it containing a mixture of the volatile fumes and air. One spark and the fireworks begin. Yes there is some danger if it is handled carelessly, but as woodworkers we handle volatile flammable materials all the time, so I assumed everyone was with the program of not setting their work area on fire.
No mean-spiritedness intended here, but really, if you have THAT much grease on your work, you need another hobby. I've often gone not even close to that extent [using alcohol] and had absolutely no problems finishing whatsoever.
follered along aftuh th' hahpsicoed ...
AKA "piano"... Regards Dave Mundt
What type of finishes do you typically use?
And, the advice of Hax isn't directed at the amount but the almost insane reactions against using anything that some see as the least bit flammable/toxic/whatever... :(
Yeah, don't smoke while using naptha and don't sniff the can opening, but it's a common shop consumable, for heaven's sake!
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