I couldn't find the exact same hammer on the web but I'm almost certain that
Just posted the answers for this set, still not sure about the saw but I'm
confident in the rest of them:
Some of those old time people were totally clever. Sadly,
our modern generation can't do these things. Kids these
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 9/13/2013 5:26 PM, Rob H. wrote:
For 2974 you say in part:
"The mason who produced this tool hated to lose mortar when
connecting two cinder blocks. Too often the mortar fell into the
holes in the block and could not be retrieved. This tool was made to
be positioned on top of a block, the mortar was then placed on the
block, next the tool was removed, and another cinder block placed on
Does stopping the mortar falling in weaken the wall significantly?
It seems like the mortar that falls in and remains connected to the
main mass of mortar will provide some stability to sideways movement,
and sticking to the inside of the block also increase strength under
tension. (In other words, I think that sloppy work can increase the
strength of the wall, perhaps significantly.)
The hollow cavity concrete block is a relatively recent creation in
building supplies. By the time it was in common use, there were already
in place building regulations requiring poured columns and re-bar for
strengthening structures laterally.
In addition, most of the mortar that falls over the edge just falls all
the way to the bottom of the column. What remains on the lower block
"keys" on the insides when the upper block is mushed down onto it and
When this fellow invented the aid, he must've not been a very experienced
BLOCK mason (may have been a spectacular brick or stone mason), because
the block masons I've worked with hardly spill a teaspoonful inside,
until the upper block is placed. By then, you've got to take off the
Add to that, that a lot of masons 'butter' the upper block, rather than
mounding mortar up on the lower one. It's easier because they can
position it at will, rather than having to deal with the position it's in
on the wall.
The last really good block mason in north central Florida died a few
years back... Ben Fitts... He wasn't even 'technically' a block mason,
but a concrete contractor, but he could do magic with block. He was a
wonderful OLD black fellow, who at 80 could break a 6-foot man in two
with three fingers. He always told his men, "If you do your job, I'll
call you 'sir'. If I ever stop calling you 'sir', you're in trouble."
Now, all we have for that work are itinerant crews of very young Mexican
men, who work their asses off, but they're not great masons. Haven't
seen a plumb, square wall in years...
I've nothing against them; these crews just aren't very good masons. The
very best drywall mechanic I ever saw was a 25-year-old Mexican fellow
who could do a whole 1200sq.ft. house, hung and first-coat taped in two
days; four days to completely finished, and -- ALONE! (and when he was
done and it was primed, you couldn't see a joint, anywhere!
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 3:04:54 AM UTC-5, Rob H. wrote:
com/ The larger images can also be seen here: http://imgur.com/a/SMMZ6 Rob
2971 seems to be some sort of quick release "clamp" and the shape of the cl
amping faces seems might fit onto something like a spare tire or some bevel
ed (center?) surface. The end of the threaded rod would attach the unit to
the vehicle, trailer or some other transport.
Or for some other similar clamping of two halves, of something, together?
For pressing of some two units together, yet able to be quickly released?
Aha! I was looking for it as a note on the blog site before I
got to the usenet posting. Thanks.
Posting from rec.crafts.metalworking as always. Which of the
three newsgroups are the rest of you posting from?
2971) Two possibilities, depending on the size and the hidden
details of the linkage.
a) To pull two objects together with features shaped to
fit the trapezoidal wedge shapes. (Not very strong,
though, based on the apparent thickness of the metal in
b) They sort of look like the profile of some styles of
house gutter -- so perhaps a tool to help in shaping and
attaching the ends to some of the continuous formed
gutters (made from a roll by a pickup truck-mounted
2972) Assuming that the needles are lose in holes in the brass
cylinder, it could be a cartridge for a needle scaler, usually
fitted to an air chisel type hammer, and used to remove
welding scale from freshly welded joints.
Those that I have seen, however, tended to include the shank
which fits into the air chisel.
2973) A hammer with a hard head (facing away) and the provisions for
a soft head. The part which unscrews is case into a head made
of a plastic or rubber (plastic is usually a transparent yellow,
rubber I've seen in black, green, and red), or lead.
Once cast, the head is screwed into the hammer head for use,
until it gets too worn from use, at which point the steel core
screw is recovered and a new head is cast around it -- or a new
head is purchased and screwed in. The casting form of repair is
more likely in the lead format. And for that, there is a
missing piece -- a mold which closes around the threaded part,
and shapes the lead as it is poured in.
2974) For forming decorative patterns on walls or fences. Either
a) It is pressed repeatly into still fresh concrete or
stucco to make the pattern (keying the last shape at one
end into the first shape at the other end).
b) It is used as a stencil for spraying a contrasting paint
around the pattern -- probably with the wire side away
from the surface being painted, and the angle is
adjusted so there are no shadows of the wires left in the
2975) Perhaps for cleaning holes in lab glassware, or in cast metal
tools which allow airflow or something similar (e.g. a spray
paint gun.) Hmm ... a bit large for the latter use, I think.
2976) Hmm ... no springs visible, just a rope and pulleys.
The teeth look to be for bi-directional wood sawing for green
If there were a spring forcing the two jaws apart, I could see
it being placed between the piece to be cut and another limb,
and the spring provides the force to hold the teeth in contact
with the workpiece.
Or -- if the toothed edge were rotated to face *towards* the
other jaw, the rope could be pulled tight to keep the teeth
forced into a piece of wood held between the jaws.
Now to post and then see what others have suggested.
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