I also remember seeing felt on the hammers. I wonder if rubber lasts longer for the mutes? I asked a piano tuner, but could not hear his answer. I guess it's a mute point.
. Christ> In article , snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says... >>
That's like asking whether a transmission will last longer than a carburetor.
I couldn't find the exact same hammer on the web but I'm almost certain that this is correct.
Just posted the answers for this set, still not sure about the saw but I'm confident in the rest of them:
Rob
Some of those old time people were totally clever. Sadly, our modern generation can't do these things. Kids these days.....
. Christ>> 2973: I'm pretty sure is soft face replaceable head mallet... but the
Do you think they don't make dead blow mallets with replaceable tips anymore.
On 13 Sep 2013 14:26:57 -0700, Rob H. wrote in part:
For 2974 you say in part: "The mason who produced this tool hated to lose mortar when connecting two cinder blocks. Too often the mortar fell into the holes in the block and could not be retrieved. This tool was made to be positioned on top of a block, the mortar was then placed on the block, next the tool was removed, and another cinder block placed on top." Does stopping the mortar falling in weaken the wall significantly? It seems like the mortar that falls in and remains connected to the main mass of mortar will provide some stability to sideways movement, and sticking to the inside of the block also increase strength under tension. (In other words, I think that sloppy work can increase the strength of the wall, perhaps significantly.)
Mark F fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Not much.
The hollow cavity concrete block is a relatively recent creation in building supplies. By the time it was in common use, there were already in place building regulations requiring poured columns and re-bar for strengthening structures laterally.
In addition, most of the mortar that falls over the edge just falls all the way to the bottom of the column. What remains on the lower block "keys" on the insides when the upper block is mushed down onto it and seated true.
When this fellow invented the aid, he must've not been a very experienced BLOCK mason (may have been a spectacular brick or stone mason), because the block masons I've worked with hardly spill a teaspoonful inside, until the upper block is placed. By then, you've got to take off the shield...
Add to that, that a lot of masons 'butter' the upper block, rather than mounding mortar up on the lower one. It's easier because they can position it at will, rather than having to deal with the position it's in on the wall.
The last really good block mason in north central Florida died a few years back... Ben Fitts... He wasn't even 'technically' a block mason, but a concrete contractor, but he could do magic with block. He was a wonderful OLD black fellow, who at 80 could break a 6-foot man in two with three fingers. He always told his men, "If you do your job, I'll call you 'sir'. If I ever stop calling you 'sir', you're in trouble."
Now, all we have for that work are itinerant crews of very young Mexican men, who work their asses off, but they're not great masons. Haven't seen a plumb, square wall in years...
I've nothing against them; these crews just aren't very good masons. The very best drywall mechanic I ever saw was a 25-year-old Mexican fellow who could do a whole 1200sq.ft. house, hung and first-coat taped in two days; four days to completely finished, and -- ALONE! (and when he was done and it was primed, you couldn't see a joint, anywhere!
Lloyd
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