What if I don't wait?

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I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not a mere 3.
So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine, it's been 2 hours.
I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
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Jim
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Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
Not fine funrniture!
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Danish Oil? Poly? Oak Veneer? For drying jock straps?
Will the fan at least be vented to the outside? 'Course then he might have to deal with neighbors or the EPA! :o)
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Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been told. He's drying mostly pads.
I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore either.
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Never Enough Money wrote:

I always did. <G> To be exact, Coolmax, silk, or polypropelene. Not to mention a cup / supporter. However, I WASHED those every time!
Equipment racks are for pads and hockey pants.
Barry
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wrote:

That was way more information than I needed. =:-0

That's a perfect straight-line if I've ever seen one. Nope, not gonna stoop to that level, uh-uh, nosirree.

Regarding your question, I would be concerned that if the Danish oil had not had enough time to fully cure, the poly may not adhere well to the surface.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety Army General Richard Cody +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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As a hockey player myself and a wooddorker, I don't think it will much matter what happens for this project. I didn't even put any finish at all on my equipment drying rack. It will be fine.
Frank
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Jim
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Because I had 2 quarts of Danish oil handy.
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I normally wait 12 hours. If you do it sooner, the solvent just picks up the previous coat; sometimes giving really lousy results.
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Danish oil brings color to the wood. Thanks.
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Dewaxed shellac would dry quickly and could have been used under the, um, poly. It could have been tinted, if necessary.
Dave
Never Enough Money wrote:

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On 3 Apr 2005 16:48:49 -0700, "Never Enough Money"

You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.
Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear behaviour, in case you happened to care.
In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference (hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather than plastic mud.
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wrote:

I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of Watco wipe-on poly on cherry for my entertainment center. My normal finish preference for cherry is polymerized tung oil, but the entertainment center was too large a project to make that finish schedule practical. The wipe-on poly doesn't leave that coated in plastic look, and followed with a good coat of wax, the figure of the wood really stands out.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety Army General Richard Cody +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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wrote:

When I was doing test pieces, I found that the Danish oil imparted a better effect in pulling out the figure of the wood than any of the oils I tried. I didn't want to use BLO because I was not wanting to take a chance on the oil yellowing over time.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety Army General Richard Cody +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Danish oil, covered (too quickly) in poly? Why??
Dave
Never Enough Money wrote:

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Becasue there's moisture in sweat. Didn't want the redwood expanding/contracting.
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Never Enough Money wrote:

The redwood won't sweat if you don't chase it before the kill.
Barry
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Why do you think the oil manufacturer is lying?
--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~

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