1. I prefer to wait 30-40 minutes until it gets rubbery or harder and
remove it with a chisel or sharp putty knife. Not scraping, just
2. Norm always uses a wet rag. I hate that. If you go with wet, use
super wet to totally dilute or you just wash it into the grain and
will have finish problems. Rasing grain is a non-issue. You need to
sand the darn thing at some point anyway.
3. For M&T joints, you can back cut the shoulders of the tenon piece
and you can chamfer the mortise edges to catch the squeeze. Back
cutting the shoulders is pretty common and allows you to have a sharp
edge on all mating faces of tenon piece so you can force fit it a bit
to get a tight joint on all sides.
4. Other types of joints can have a kerf cut or other tricks to catch
Helps also to apply glue to the mortise, not the tenon. That
way, the glue gets pushed down into the mortise and away
from the shoulders. For blind tenons, make sure you cut the
mortises a sixteenth or better deep to give the excess glue
someplace to go, else the joint will lock up shy of full fit.
Liquids can't be compressed.
If the glue is in the form of squeeze-out like a blob that is not really
smeared onto the wood surface, wait til it has dried slightly and skinned
over, then scrape it off. If it has smeared onto the wood, in my
experience a WET rag must be used to remove it all. Not just a damp rag,
but a WET rag, though not sopping wet. Otherwise there will be residual
glue that will cause finishing problems. If the grain raises from the
moisture, well, you'll just have to sand.
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
I let it start to set on a flat surface and use a scraper. If two pieces
are joined 90 degrees, take a plastic soda straw and cut the end off on a
diagonal. Now use the point to scrape away the wet glue. Wipe the straw or
snip shorter as needed.
I've been doing this for about 30 years now and for the first 20 or so hade
very good luck with using an almost dripping wet paper towel, even on red
oak. I did however rewipe several times with a progressively dryer paper
towel. Worked great and I never had the supposed problem of glue thinning
out and getting into the pores of the wood. Because I 95% of the time sand
a project after assembly raised grain was a non issue.
Today I seem to have mastered the proper amount of glue as I very seldom
have to deal with squeeze out at all. Swingman and I build lots of kitchen
cabinets and I don't recall us having to wipe squeeze out.
I tend to agree that fashioning the joint, and using an appropriate
amount of glue (, and no more) is the best method.
That said, I tend to use either blue painter's tape or -- now -- Frog
Tape -- to protect the joint.
I've also had luck rubbing a block of paraffin wax at the joint
edges. It protects the wood from taking up the glue.
I've never liked the rag method -- wet OR dry.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.