Water base Poly question


Hello I've Googled and can't find the answer to a problem I've run into. First I'll tell you that I've use water base poly finishes before with perfect results. I've recently refinished two Ethan Allen dinning room chairs and am disappointed with the results. I did everything the same as the coffee table I did, even using the same can of poly and base stain and new brushes. But the chairs turned out cloudy looking, not perfectly clear like the coffee table. Anyone have any ideas as to why? And how do I fix it? Hopefully you don't tell me to refinish again, as it was a heck of a lot of hand sanding.
Thanks Lane
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"Mums" the word, then. <g>
Dave
Lane wrote:
Hopefully you

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Damn, I thought you'd say that. Rats.... Lane
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It sounds like too thick an application or even too fast a recoat.
Happy sanding!
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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Been my experience that foam brushes work best on this type of finish. The foam eliminates the little air bubbles that a bristle or polyester brush will make.... and dont over brush....sand very lightly between coats with 220...just enought to scuff the surface and create a mechanical bond with the next coat.
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JuanKnighter wrote:

I'd use at least 320, though...
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Actually, HVLP works best for WBP. <g>
Dave
JuanKnighter wrote:

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Of course, but who has one? :)
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Time for you to pony up the big bucks for one! :) I was reticent about dropping so much cash on one, but eventually I realized there's no free lunch. I've not regretted buying my Accuspray and all the extra tips /nozzles, and caps that allow me to spray anything from a dye stain, all the way up to the once-ina-blue-moon-application of latex (hardly the purpose for which I bought the unit). Someday I'll use it with latex to repaint interior doors that have been painted with a paint pad and have those pesky little ridges to show for it, even though I used Floetrol. I've sprayed only a couple of interior doors; they look fantastic!
Once you've used a quality HVLP unit, you then understand why they are so horribly expensive; the fact is they work well, are easy to master, and beat the pants off other application methods OR NOBODY WOULD BE BUYING THEM. Kinda like an iPod. They aren't cheap, but oh, does the music sound great, and the interface is superb.
Dave
JuanKnighter wrote:

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I just re-read my post and see that I've given the impression I've not used the unit with latex yet. I have a couple of times, but the doors project is one that keeps coming to mind as a future project. Thin latex about 15% with water/Floetrol for best results. MFGR suggests 20%. I see no need going that thin.
Dave
David wrote:
Someday I'll use it with latex to

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